Sarajevo on Sunday — what's open, what's closed, and the plan that works
Regular retail closed since November 2024. Souvenir shops and traditional crafts are exempt. Restaurants, cafés, cable car, and two memorial museums all open. Here is the plan.
Sarajevo on Sunday works, but the picture changed materially on 14 November 2024, when the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Law on Internal Trade came into force, closing most retail on Sunday across the whole Federation (which includes the city). Regular shops — Ferhadija high-street retail, supermarkets, bookshops, electronics — are closed. But the law explicitly exempts souvenir shops, traditional craft workshops, bakeries, petrol stations, and flower shops. That means the copper row on Kazandžiluk and the souvenir shops in Baščaršija are legally allowed to open — though individual owners set their own hours, and some close anyway. From September 2025, a further amendment lets family-owned shops open Sundays if the owner (not employees) works. What Baščaršija petitioned for — and was rejected — was a broader tourist-zone exception covering all retail in the area. The specific craft and souvenir exemption was in the law from day one.
The quick version. Regular retail (Ferhadija, supermarkets) closed. Souvenir shops and traditional crafts (Kazandžiluk): legally exempt, may open. Restaurants, cafés, bakeries: all open. Cable car, Vrelo Bosne, Žuta Tabija: open. Galerija 11/07/95 and War Childhood Museum: open. National Museum: open (10:00–18:00). Svrzo’s House, Museum 1878–1918: closed.
The Sunday shopping law — what it means for you
In force since 14 November 2024 (fully applied from mid-2025), the FBiH Law on Internal Trade requires most retail to close Sunday.
| Category | Sunday status | Detail |
|---|---|---|
| Ferhadija high-street retail | Closed | Clothing, jewellers, cosmetics chains |
| Supermarkets | Closed | Bingo, Konzum, Amko, Mercator |
| Bookshops, electronics, general retail | Closed | — |
| Souvenir shops | Exempt — can open | Kazandžiluk, textile shops, ćilim rugs. Owners set their own hours. |
| Traditional craft workshops | Exempt — can open | Copper, wood, leather. Same exemption as souvenir shops. |
| Family-owned shops (from Sept 2025) | Exempt if owner works | No employees on Sunday; owner or family member only. |
| Bakeries (pekare) | Open | Pekara Kod Mahira, every neighbourhood pekara |
| Petrol stations + convenience shops | Open | — |
| Pharmacies | Open (10 fixed duty locations, 24/7) | Nearest to centre: Baščaršija, Marijin Dvor, Novo Sarajevo |
| Restaurants, ćevabdžinicas, cafés, bars | Open | Željo, Petica, Ministry of Ćejf, Zlatna Ribica |
| Museums and cultural venues | Varies | See the museum table below |
| Cable car, springs, viewpoints, parks | Open | Trebević, Vrelo Bosne, Žuta Tabija |
The distinction is legal: regular retail must close; hospitality, souvenir shops, traditional crafts, bakeries, and petrol stations are explicitly exempted. In practice, Baščaršija on a Sunday is quieter at street level than on a weekday — some souvenir and craft shop owners choose to close, and the Ferhadija high-street retail is fully shut — but the bazaar is not dead. The restaurants, cafés, and many of the craft shops remain open.
Outdoor attractions — all open Sunday
| Place | Hours | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Trebević cable car | 09:00–21:00 (summer) | Shorter in winter. Check zicara.ba. Mon opens at 12:00. |
| Vrelo Bosne | Daylight hours | The springs park. Sunday is the Sarajevan family day here. |
| Žuta Tabija | Always | Free access. The sunset viewpoint. |
| Olympic bobsled track | Always | Outdoor, no gates. Walk from the cable car top station. |
| Latin Bridge | Always | The assassination corner. |
| Sebilj | Always | Feed the pigeons. |
| Miljacka embankment | Always | The river walk through the whole city. |
Religious sites — Sunday visiting windows
| Site | Visiting windows | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque | 09:00–12:30, 14:00–16:00, 17:30–19:00 | Between the five daily prayer times. Headscarves at the door. Side entrance for non-Muslim visitors. |
| Sacred Heart Cathedral | Masses: 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00 (English), 18:00 | Best 14:00–17:00 — interior open, no service running. |
| Orthodox Cathedral | Around liturgy, usually 09:00–11:00 | Best in the afternoon. |
| Ashkenazi Synagogue | Varies | Check ahead. Shabbat and community programming take priority. |
Restaurants and cafés — all open Sunday
Željo, Petica, Mrkva, Hodžić, Ministry of Ćejf, Čajdžinica Džirlo, the whole Kovači row — all open Sunday normally. They are hospitality, not retail. Sunday is one of their busier days. Every neighbourhood pekara is open too. Burek and pita are Sunday food.
Sunday museum hours
| Museum | Sunday | Hours | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Galerija 11/07/95 | Open | 10:00–20:00 | Srebrenica memorial. Essential. |
| War Childhood Museum | Open | 11:00–19:00 | Last entry 18:30. Council of Europe Museum Prize 2018. |
| National Museum (Zemaljski muzej) | Open | 10:00–18:00 | Home of the Sarajevo Haggadah. |
| History Museum | Open | 09:00–13:00 | Shorter than weekdays. Morning only. |
| Tunnel of Hope (Butmir) | Open | Seasonal | 20-min taxi from centre. Check ahead. |
| Museum 1878–1918 | Closed | — | At the Latin Bridge. Open Mon–Sat. |
| Muzej Sarajeva (City Museum branches) | Closed | — | Closed Sunday and Monday. |
| Muzej opsade Sarajeva (Siege Museum) | Closed | — | Inside the Tunnel complex. Different hours from the Tunnel itself. |
| Svrzo’s House (Kovači Street) | Closed | — | Ottoman-period residence. Open Mon–Sat. |
Banks, post offices (except some Central branches), and all municipal offices are also closed Sunday. Ferhadija’s high-street shops and all supermarkets are shut. Baščaršija’s souvenir shops and traditional craft workshops are legally exempt and may open — but expect a quieter bazaar than on a weekday.
The catch. The four museums that close Sunday — Svrzo’s House, Museum 1878–1918, the City Museum, the Siege Museum — are the four a first-time visitor would expect to build a day around. If Sunday is your only day, go to Galerija 11/07/95 and the War Childhood Museum instead. Both open, both essential, both cover the modern half of the city’s story.
The Sunday plan that works
A Sunday itinerary optimised for the closures:
09:00 — Coffee on Kovači
Ministry of Ćejf or Čajdžinica Džirlo. The specialty-coffee row opens by 08:30. Sunday morning is the quietest slot of the week — locals are still asleep, the coffee is slow.
10:00 — Sebilj and the bazaar
Baščaršija is at its calmest on Sunday morning. The copper shops on Kazandžiluk are legally exempt and can open, but many owners take Sunday off — the street is quieter, fewer hammers, more cobblestones. Feed the pigeons, browse the shops that are open, notice the atmosphere of a working craft street at its slowest. For a longer version of this walk, see the Baščaršija walking tour.
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11:30 — The Gazi Husrev-beg complex
Between morning prayer times, the mosque courtyard is quiet and welcoming to visitors. Fifteen minutes with the fountain, ten in the interior. Non-Muslim visitors enter through the side entrance; cover your shoulders and knees.
12:30 — Ćevapi lunch
Petica Ferhatović at 12:30 on Sunday is the Sarajevan family-lunch moment. It is a restaurant, not a shop — legally open, and one of its busier days.
14:00 — Galerija 11/07/95
Ninety minutes at the Srebrenica memorial gallery (open until 20:00). Sunday is a good day to visit, quieter than weekday afternoons.
16:00 — War Childhood Museum
Sixty minutes at the War Childhood Museum on Logavina. The objects and testimonies of the 1992–1995 siege as remembered by the children who lived through it. Open until 19:00; last entry at 18:30.
17:30 — Trebević cable car for sunset
Nine minutes up the ridge on the cable car. Stay for the light. Come back for dinner.
20:00 — Dinner and a bazaar walk
Slow Sunday dinner at Kibe Mahala, Inat Kuća (opens at 13:00 on Sunday), or Zlatna Ribica — all restaurants, all open Sunday. The bazaar after dark, walked slowly, closes the day.
An outdoor Sunday alternative
If you prefer a nature-heavy Sunday and skip the museums entirely:
Morning — Vrelo Bosne
Tram 3 to Ilidža, then the avenue walk to Vrelo Bosne. Three hours at the springs. Lunch at one of the Ilidža restaurants before heading back.
Afternoon — Trebević
Back to Baščaršija, then the cable car up Trebević at 16:00. Walk the bobsled track. Sunset from the top station.
Evening — the bazaar
Slow dinner and coffee in Baščaršija. A full Sunday, no museums.
Practical Sunday things worth knowing
Prepare on Saturday
- Souvenir shopping works Sunday, but Saturday is safer. Souvenir shops and traditional crafts are legally exempt from the Sunday closure — some will be open. But Saturday has the full selection, the full crew, and the longest hours (until 20:00 or 21:00 in season). If you only have Sunday, walk Kazandžiluk and buy from whoever is open.
- Groceries on Saturday evening — or a Sunday drugstore. Supermarkets (Bingo, Konzum, Mercator) are closed Sunday, so do the big shop on Saturday evening (open until 20:00–22:00). But if you need milk, bread, or basics on Sunday itself, look for a dragstor — small shops of under 50 m² that run 24/7 and are legally exempt from the Sunday closure. Bazar market at Nedima Filipovića 25 in Čengić Vila and Dragstor Sarajevo 24/7 at Koturova 1 are two — both open 24 hours, every day including Sunday. Most neighbourhoods have at least one; petrol-station convenience shops are another fallback.
On the day
- Public transport runs Sunday but at reduced frequency. Trams run every 10–15 minutes rather than every 5–8. Buses to Ilidža and Vratnik are less frequent.
- Pharmacies: Sarajevo has 10 dežurne apoteke (duty pharmacies) that run 24/7, 365 days a year — they do not rotate. Call centre for all locations: 033 22 33 99. Full list below.
- ATMs and card payments: all working normally.
- The city post office on Obala Kulina bana has limited Sunday hours; most other post offices are closed.
- Sunday brunch culture: Sarajevans do not do the brunch-until-15:00 that Berlin or London does. They do a proper lunch (ručak) around 13:00. Restaurants adjust; brunch menus are a hotel-only thing.
24/7 duty pharmacies — dežurne apoteke
| Pharmacy | Address | Phone |
|---|---|---|
| Apoteka Baščaršija | Obala Kulina bana 40 | 033 272 300 |
| Apoteka Marijin Dvor | Maršala Tita 1 | 033 552 130 |
| Apoteka Novo Sarajevo | Zmaja od Bosne 51 | 033 713 830 |
| Apoteka Kovačići | Zagrebačka 27 | 033 713 550 |
| Apoteka Otoka | Gradačačka 14a | 033 715 360 |
| Apoteka Dobrinja | Salke Lagumdžije 15 | 033 766 380 |
| Apoteka Hitna | Kolodvorska 14 | 033 716 331 |
| Apoteka Vogošća | Igmanska 56 | 033 424 250 |
| Apoteka Hadžići | Hadželi 80 | 033 428 220 |
| Apoteka Ilijaš | Hašima Spahića 23 | 033 428 810 |
The law’s current status
The broader tourist-zone exception — which would have let all retail in Baščaršija open Sunday — was rejected in 2025. But souvenir shops and traditional crafts were exempt from the start, and from September 2025 family-owned shops can open if the owner works. The law is evolving — further amendments may allow 16–18 working Sundays per year with increased employee compensation. Check the current rules if Sunday shopping matters to your trip.
What to do with the day
If your itinerary allows any flexibility, make Sunday your outdoor day. Save the four Sunday-closed museums for a Monday or Tuesday if you have one; hit the two Sunday-open memorial museums (Galerija 11/07/95 and War Childhood Museum) in the afternoon; use the morning and evening for the bazaar and the mountain.
If Sunday is your only day, follow the plan above and skip the mainstream history museums entirely. The two memorial museums are, honestly, the more affecting content anyway. And the ćevapi, the cable car, and the bazaar are as much of a Sarajevo day as any museum ever is.
At nine in the evening, with the cable car behind you and a coffee cooling on the table at Džirlo, Kazandžiluk will be quiet. The last craft shops will have closed for the night. The copper hammers pick up again Monday morning. You will not have missed them.
Sources & further reading
- FBiH Law on Internal Trade — introduces non-working Sunday for shops (Official Gazette; in force 14 November 2024)
- 'BiH introduces a non-working Sunday in Shops' — Sarajevo Times
- 'Bosnia's Federation makes Sunday non-working for trade workers' — SeeNews
- 'Farsa oko neradne nedjelje' — Faktor.ba (on the Baščaršija tourist-zone exception rejection)
- 'Od septembra: Radna nedjelja samo za porodične trgovine u FBiH' — Kultura Poslovanja (September 2025 family-shop amendment)
- Related on this site: Sarajevo museums ranked
- Related on this site: A slow walk through Baščaršija
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