Explore Sarajevo Stories
Between Mula Mustafa Bašeskije Street and Ferhadija — at the exact seam where the Ottoman čaršija meets the Habsburg grid — sits a small, half-visible courtyard 27 metres wide and 50 metres deep. It contains two synagogues: the Old Temple, built in 1581 and the oldest synagogue in Bosnia; and the New Temple, built in 1870. Both were converted into a museum and a gallery. The courtyard is officially named for Laura Papo Bohoreta, the Sephardic Sarajevan writer. Nermina Zagora and Dina Šamić, in their 2021 Faculty of Architecture book, treat it as their first case study.
Editor's picks
If you have ninety minutes.
The 32nd Sarajevo Film Festival (14–21 August 2026) screened 250 films from 70 countries. Five people received the Honorary Heart of Sarajevo. Emily Watson...
Sarajevo is sometimes called the Jerusalem of Europe. Almost everyone assumes it’s a 20th-century tourism-board invention — it isn’t. The nickname is roughly five...
Sarajevo has three main free (tip-based) walking tour operators running in 2026: Neno & Friends, Meet Bosnia, and Tourist Guide Sarajevo. Each meets at...
ARCHITECTURE
14 stories
In 1983 the Bosnian Franciscans of the Bosna Srebrena Province commissioned Zlatko Ugljen to design the interior of their Church of St. Peter and...
Zejnilović and Husukić’s 2018 ArchNet-IJAR article reads Sarajevo through four residential periods, Ottoman 1462–1878, Habsburg 1878–1918, interwar Yugoslav 1918–1941, and socialist 1945–1991, and argues...
Between 1933 and 1941 the Slovenian architect Dušan Grabrijan taught at the Secondary Technical School in Sarajevo, and between the same years he received...
In 1947 Juraj Neidhardt built a small wooden ski house on Trebević, his first Sarajevo commission after moving from Zagreb in 1938. It applied...
Most civic-cultural buildings in Habsburg Sarajevo were financed the hard way, direct fundraising, membership dues, patronage. The Napredak Palace at Titova and Alipašina was...
Juraj Neidhardt developed three distinct modernist housing forms for Sarajevo, each rooted in the same Ottoman-Bosnian principle that Grabrijan and Neidhardt named ‘pravo na...
The existing Salomova post gives you the hidden atrium and the 1912 opening date. Trapara’s 2019 dissertation adds what the earlier post missed: on...
The site’s Urban Rooms post covers Zagora and Šamić’s five case-study courtyards. What we hadn’t named is that in 2017 they won the Collegium...
The Sarajevo Sacred Heart is Vancaš’s flagship. He spent a year in France in 1881–82 sketching one specific church, Notre Dame de Dijon, and...
Sarajevo’s National Theatre didn’t open as a theatre. In October 1899 it opened as Društveni dom, a private cultural club for the Habsburg-Sarajevo professional...
The stock story of Sarajevo Vijećnica names Alexander Wittek as the architect, Iveković as his completer, Pařík as the site supervisor. Nedžad Kurto’s Faculty-of-Architecture...
Wikipedia’s English article on Vijećnica credits Alexander Wittek (design) and Ćiril Iveković (completion). It does not mention Karel Pařík, the Czech architect who signed...
English Wikipedia’s article on the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina runs to about 800 words and mentions no architect by name. Boris Trapara’s...
English Wikipedia calls the style of the Vijećnica and its sibling town halls ‘pseudo-Moorish.’ The European Research Council project ERC 758099 at the University...
CONTEMPORARY
2 stories
If you’ve been to Sarajevo in the last 18 months and watched the new hotels going up in Marijin Dvor, Ilidža, and around Skenderija,...
The site’s transport posts cover the practical stuff — how to get from the airport, when the trams run, what the tram network is...
CULTURE
24 stories
The New Primitivism movement was not planned, not organised, and — in the telling of its own members — not even a movement. Mirko...
Every editorial project needs a thesis. The Nadrealisti’s was stated plainly by Nenad Janković in a 2020 interview: ‘We put Sarajevo at the centre...
Every Sarajevan knows Zabranjeno Pušenje. Fewer know how the band got its name. The future Nadrealisti were rehearsing in a basement on Fuad Midžić...
The Nacional Detektor sketch from the 1988 second season of Top Lista Nadrealista is three minutes and six seconds long. In it, a researcher...
The ‘hepek’ is one of those Sarajevan cultural objects that everyone over forty knows and nobody under thirty has heard of. It was a...
Before Top Lista Nadrealista was a TV show, it was a fifteen-minute Saturday radio segment on Radio Sarajevo’s second programme. The slot was called...
The Sarajevo Film Festival began in October 1995, four months before the siege ended, as a fifteen-film week at three venues under continued shelling....
In July 2018 the third global plenary of Catholic Theological Ethics in the World Church convened in Sarajevo, chose Building Bridges as its theme,...
The Nobel laureate’s Sarajevo novel is Gospodjica, The Woman from Sarajevo, written during the German occupation of Belgrade in 1944 and published by Svjetlost...
More than half the country’s tourists visit one city. The canton’s 2021–2027 development strategy says so plainly: 667,756 tourists in 2019, 54.4% of the...
Walk down Kazandžiluk in Baščaršija today and you’ll see engraved copper pens, letter-openers, and small ornaments made from spent artillery shells and bullet casings....
Miloš Jovanović’s 2025 article in Southeast European and Black Sea Studies argues that post-1989 urban restructuring in four Balkan and imperial cities, Rijeka, Belgrade,...
The Grabrijan and Neidhardt story tells you how the two Yugoslav architects wrote the 1957 book that redefined Bosnian modernism. What it does not...
Twenty years after the Bosnian war, a tour operator called Insider Tour in Sarajevo launched a new offering alongside ‘Times of Misfortune’ and the...
You walk into an ordinary apartment building somewhere in central Sarajevo. Your host, who introduces himself as Nula Jedan, ‘Zero One’, leads you into...
The Sarajevan public spaces you can name, the Sebilj square, Ferhadija, the Miljacka embankment, are the tip of a much larger inventory. A 2021...
If you take the cable car up Trebević and look north across the valley, you’ll see a suburban district climbing the far ridge. That’s...
If you asked most people to guess Sarajevo’s top tourist source countries in 2022, they’d say Croatia, Turkey, Germany, maybe Serbia and Austria. All...
Sarajevo has an internal international border that you can walk across without noticing. The Dayton Peace Agreement drew the Inter-Entity Boundary Line — the...
Crni humor, literally ‘black humour’, is a Sarajevan register that predates the siege by generations and became, during the four years of 1992–1995, a...
Walk down Kazandžiluk on a warm afternoon and, between the coffee sets and the copper trays, you will see them: pens made from the...
Ryan Sidhoo’s first feature, The Track, follows three teenagers training as luge athletes on the shell-pocked ruin of the 1984 Sarajevo Olympic course. Co-produced...
Inat does not translate. The closest English word is stubbornness, but inat is stubbornness with honour. The most famous example in Sarajevo is the...
Bosnian coffee is not a beverage. It is an excuse. To slow down, to sit, to listen.
FOOD
2 stories
Sarajevo runs on somun, the flat wood-fired bread you buy for one BAM from a corner pekara at 07:00. In 2013 a French artisan...
Ten little grilled sausages, a fluffy somun bread, a spoon of kajmak, raw onion. The whole soul of Bosnian comfort food, refined to ten...
GUIDES
25 stories
Stari Bar in Montenegro and Baščaršija in Sarajevo are two Ottoman čaršijas that lost the empire in the same year, 1878, and went opposite...
Sarajevo Airport is unusually close to the centre. If your gap is three hours or more, you can leave the airport and see real...
Sarajevo has three main free (tip-based) walking tour operators running in 2026: Neno & Friends, Meet Bosnia, and Tourist Guide Sarajevo. Each meets at...
A one-page encyclopaedic definition of Sarajevo. What the city is (capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina), where it is (southeast Europe, Dinaric Alps, ~550 m...
Two days in Sarajevo is enough to see the city’s four-century sweep — Ottoman bazaar, Habsburg boulevard, socialist superblocks, siege scars — and eat...
Is Sarajevo Muslim-friendly? It is a Muslim-majority European capital with more than 120 mosques, five daily calls to prayer from Baščaršija, and halal food...
Sarajevo costs roughly $1,000 a month for a comfortable digital nomad setup — a one-bedroom apartment in the centre for €350, coworking from €100,...
What are the best day trips from Sarajevo? Six that earn a day: Vrelo Bosne (the springs, 45 minutes by tram), Bjelašnica (Olympic skiing,...
Where to eat in Sarajevo? The city eats well at every price point. Four ćevapi grills on Bravadžiluk serve the best grilled meat in...
Mostar is not a smaller Sarajevo and Sarajevo is not a bigger Mostar. They share Ottoman heritage, a river, and a war, but the...
Sarajevo and Dubrovnik are three and a half hours apart by bus, but the travel experience they offer is almost unrecognisable as the same...
Belgrade and Sarajevo are both underpriced, underrated European capitals with deep histories and cheap beer. But the comparison ends there. Belgrade is a Danube...
The FBiH Law on Internal Trade closed regular retail on Sundays from November 2024, but souvenir shops and traditional crafts are exempt. Restaurants, cafés,...
What is there to do in Sarajevo at night? More than most travel guides suggest. The bazaar stays alive until 02:00 on weekends, the...
What are the actual things to do in Sarajevo with kids? Pionirska Dolina, the 8.5-hectare zoo and playground park two kilometres from the centre....
A self-guided Sarajevo walking tour that a first-time visitor can complete in three hours. Eight stops, from the 1462 Ottoman bazaar to the 1899...
Where should you stay in Sarajevo? Baščaršija for first-time visitors who want the bazaar at their doorstep. Ferhadija for shops, cafés, and the Habsburg...
How do you get from Sarajevo Airport to the city centre? Uber, Bolt, and Yandex Go do NOT operate in Bosnia, anyone advising otherwise...
How do you get from Sarajevo to Mostar? By train, twice daily on ŽFBH, about 1h58, 14.10 BAM. By bus, hourly from Sarajevo Main...
When is the best time to visit Sarajevo? Late May through early July for weather and light. September for the Film Festival and cooler...
Is Sarajevo the most polluted city in Europe? For about ten weeks a year — late December through mid-February — yes, sometimes. For the...
How many days in Sarajevo? Three is the honest answer for most travellers. Two if the trip is short. One is possible but you...
Is Sarajevo tap water safe to drink? Yes. Sarajevo’s water comes from a karst aquifer under the Sarajevsko polje plain, filtered through kilometres of...
Is Sarajevo worth visiting? Yes. It is one of the few European capitals where a first-time visitor can, in a single afternoon, walk from...
Is Sarajevo safe? Yes, meaningfully safer for common tourist risks than Barcelona, Rome, or Paris, though not on the Zurich or Vienna level. Violent...
HERITAGE
33 stories
Tašlihan burned in the 1879 fire. Three years later, on the same ground, Karel Pařík designed Hotel Europa — the first European hotel in...
Gazi Husrev-beg was Ottoman governor of Bosnia in the 1520s and 1530s. Between 1531 and 1541 he founded, endowed, and paid for a mosque,...
The 1997 Bosnian submission of Sarajevo to UNESCO’s Tentative World Heritage List is one of the more misread documents in the city’s heritage inventory....
Above Kovačići, on the south slope over the Miljacka, sits a cemetery of about 3,850 stone tombstones on 31,160 square metres. It is the...
Bosnia and Herzegovina has about seventy thousand medieval tombstones called stećci. They stand across the country in scattered necropolises, and since 2016 thirty of...
In the villages of the mountain regions around Sarajevo, Vareš, Ilijaš, Olovo, Konjic, Gornji Vakuf, the Zvijezda and Konjuh chains, a specific kind of...
The Sarajevo National Museum, Zemaljski muzej Bosne i Hercegovine, is a four-pavilion complex on Zmaja od Bosne designed by Karel Pařík and opened in...
The Sarajevo Main Post Office, designed by Josip Vancaš and opened in 1913, is the largest Vienna Secession building in Sarajevo. Boris Trapara’s 2019...
The Sacred Heart Cathedral on Ferhadija was consecrated on 14 September 1889, in the presence of the Bishop of Dubrovnik. Vancaš had designed it...
Push a heavy oak door open in a Habsburg-era palace on Strossmayerova, or Vrazova, or Obala Kulina bana, and look up. The staircase is...
The Habsburg administration turned Sarajevo into a European modernity in the forty years between 1878 and 1918. Three of the small firsts they left...
The Vijećnica opened in 1896 as the Habsburg-era City Hall of Sarajevo. From 1949 it held the National and University Library. On the night...
In 1462, the year he founded Sarajevo, Isa-beg Ishaković built the city’s first hammam in Bistrik on the south bank of the Miljacka. It...
Zetra Olympic Hall opened in 1983 in the Koševo park for the 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympics. On 14 February 1984, Britain’s Jayne Torvill and...
In 1902 Karlo Paržik opened the Ashkenazi Synagogue on the left bank of the Miljacka, between the Drvenija and Ćumurija bridges. The design borrows...
Walk north from central Sarajevo up the Koševo valley and you will see, terraced against the slope, one of the strangest and most successful...
Directly across the Miljacka from Vijećnica, on the south embankment near the Cumurija bridge, there was once supposed to be a big Habsburg administrative...
Hotel Central opened in 1889 on the Habsburg-era main promenade Franz Joseph Street, today Zelenih beretki. It was Josip Vancaš’s first significant Sarajevo commission...
The Habsburg imperial government occupied Muslim Bosnia in 1878. Eleven years later, in 1889, it opened a five-year higher-education school to train Islamic sharia...
1957 is remembered in Sarajevo as the year of the modernist manifesto — the Grabrijan-Neidhardt book Le Corbusier prefaced, published in Ljubljana that spring....
The Habsburg architects who rebuilt Sarajevo between 1878 and 1918 mostly trained in Vienna. They knew the same textbooks, drew from the same catalogue...
The most photographed object in Sarajevo is the wooden kiosked fountain in the middle of Baščaršija. Everyone assumes it’s Ottoman. It isn’t — it’s...
The Sarajevo Vijećnica is treated as unique, a one-off Pseudo-Moorish city hall built by the Habsburgs to signal welcome to Sarajevo’s Muslim citizens. It...
The Berlin Treaty of 1878 gave Austria-Hungary the right to occupy Bosnia and Herzegovina. Four years later, in January 1882, the administration nearly lost...
Before the Vijećnica, before the Sacred Heart, before the National Museum, before any of the buildings Sarajevo’s Habsburg-era architecture is famous for, the Austro-Hungarian...
Sarajevo’s Serbian Orthodox Cathedral, consecrated 1872, is well known. What is less known is that the same architect, Andrija Damjanov, a Macedonian master builder...
Sarajevo has more museums than its size suggests. Eight of them are worth real time, and most can be seen on foot from the...
The Sarajevo Haggadah is a Sephardic Hebrew manuscript made in Northern Spain around 1350, in Sarajevo since at least the late Ottoman period, held...
Sarajevo gets compared to other cities a lot. Istanbul for the bazaar, Vienna for the Habsburg quarter, Berlin for the war-history walks. The comparisons...
Sarajevo has five annual festivals worth planning a trip around, the Film Festival in late August, Baščaršija Nights through July, the Winter Festival in...
Sarajevo is the only European capital where you can walk for ninety minutes in a straight line and pass through four centuries of architecture:...
Sarajevo had at least seven Ottoman stone bridges in its 16th-century prime. Four survive: Šeher-Ćehaja (1585), Kozija Ćuprija (16th c.), the Latin Bridge (1798...
Sarajevo is not on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, and probably never will be in the form most travellers expect. Two other UNESCO registers do...
HISTORY
49 stories
Velika avlija Laure Papo is a small Sarajevan courtyard between Mula Mustafa Bašeskije Street and Ferhadija, at the seam where the Ottoman čaršija meets...
Sarajevo was founded in 1462. The valley it sits in was settled at least 200 years earlier. The Slavic citadel of Vrh-Bosna — traceable...
Džidžikovac is a small residential ensemble on the slope above Koševo, designed 1948 by the Sarajevan architect brothers Reuf and Muhamed Kadić. It was...
In 1529, Sarajevo had a public toilet with running water and a working sewage system. London’s Great Stink was 329 years later. Paris got...
The Historical Museum of BiH, opened in 1963 to a 1958 design by three Zagreb architects, Boris Magaš, Edo Šmidihen, and Radovan Horvat, is...
A specific pair of photographs, Anton Schädler’s 1879 panorama of Sarajevo, taken a year after the Habsburg army arrived, and František Topič’s 1901 panorama,...
In January 1884 an unsigned Bosnische Post feuilleton titled ‘Sarajevo 1879 und 1884’ compared the city Habsburg rule had inherited with the city it...
The Popušlić family sketch from the 1991 final season of Top Lista Nadrealista is one of the sharpest compressed allegories of the Yugoslav collapse...
Sarajevska pivara was founded 1864 by a Slovenian brewer under Ottoman contract and has operated on the same site ever since. During the 1992–1995...
The Eternal Flame on Ferhadija was designed by Juraj Neidhardt and installed on 6 April 1946, the first anniversary of the Yugoslav Partisan liberation...
Bogdan Bogdanović was a Serbian architect who spent a career designing memorial parks across Yugoslavia. His 1981 Vraca Memorial Park in Sarajevo commemorated approximately...
Not all Top Lista Nadrealista sketches were equally prophetic. But ‘Sarajevski zid’ (The Sarajevo Wall) from the 1991 third season predicted things that should...
At 10:55 a.m. on Sunday 28 June 1914, on the corner of the Latin Bridge and what is now Zelenih Beretki, a nineteen-year-old Bosnian...
The University of Sarajevo Institute for the Research of Crimes Against Humanity and International Law hosted a three-day scientific conference in Sarajevo on 1...
On 27 May 1992 a mortar killed 22 people in a bakery queue on Vase Miskina Street. The next afternoon Vedran Smailović, principal cellist...
The Historical Archive of Sarajevo, Istorijski arhiv Sarajeva, was founded on 3 May 1948 by the National Committee of Sarajevo. It began in the...
In the autumn of 1994 the American journal The New Combat published an essay by Kemal Bakaršić, chief librarian of the National Museum of...
Between 8 and 19 February 1984, Sarajevo hosted the Fourteenth Winter Olympic Games. It was the first Winter Olympics in a socialist country and,...
Oslobođenje, Sarajevo’s daily newspaper, founded 1943 as an anti-fascist Partisan sheet, did not miss a single day of publication during the 1,425-day siege. Its...
The Ivan Štraus building opened in 1983 as the Olympic showcase, launched two opposing political parties in 1990–91, briefly served as Radovan Karadžić’s SDS...
Between 1909 and 1910, two British women published widely-read travel books about Bosnia at exactly the moment the region was closest to becoming the...
R.W. Seton-Watson visited Sarajevo in 1912 and 1913 before the assassination, returned in 1920 and 1925 to interview the surviving members of the conspiracy,...
Béni Kállay ran Bosnia-Herzegovina from a desk in Vienna between 1882 and 1903. His twenty-one-year tenure as Common Minister of Finance overlapped with the...
In 1878, a Habsburg military officer named Armand Schweiger-Lerchenfeld published in Vienna a 245-page ethnographic study of newly-occupied Bosnia titled ‘Das Land und seine...
Between 5,100 and 4,500 BCE, on the alluvial plain that runs from the spring of the Bosna river to the modern Sarajevo airport, a...
Our earlier post on the 1814 Sarajevo revolt gives you the outcome: the sultan sacked the vali. Šljivo’s archival source is the Habsburg proconsul...
Between 1895 and 1914, at least six substantial English-language travelogues appeared on Habsburg Bosnia. On the whole, they were not looking at Bosnia. They...
In 1896 Thomas Cook & Son launched its first Bosnia-Herzegovina tour. They ran every summer until 1914. A tour cost £25 to £46 at...
The site’s book-burning post tells you 1.25 million volumes went up on the night of 25–26 August 1992 at Vijećnica. It’s the largest single...
The book-burning post tells you about Vijećnica on 25 August 1992. The Oriental Institute burned first, three months and eight days earlier. Vijećnica lost...
The Habsburg transformation of Sarajevo is usually told as a story about buildings, Vijećnica, Sacred Heart, National Museum. Kadkani-Schmitt’s Chapter 3 is about what...
After Austria-Hungary occupied Bosnia in 1878, the Ottoman legacy became, for the majority Christian-Slav Balkan imagination, a stigma to be shed. Ottoman rule was...
Our earlier post treats the Schädler-Topič pairing as one photograph twenty-two years apart. Kadkani-Schmitt’s Chapter 4 epilogue is sharper. Topič made eleven exposures across...
Sarajevo’s 1841 tax survey lists 96 mahalas by name. It does not list a single street. That was the Ottoman city, the mahala as...
In 1942, Dušan Grabrijan and Juraj Neidhardt guest-edited a special issue of the Croatian architectural journal Tehnički Vjesnik titled Sarajevo and Its Satellites. Their...
Sarajevo has been counted seven times in ways that survive. From the 1851 late-Ottoman nüfus register through the four Habsburg censuses of 1879-1910, the...
Sarajevo is sometimes called the Jerusalem of Europe. Almost everyone assumes it’s a 20th-century tourism-board invention — it isn’t. The nickname is roughly five...
There is one Sarajevo story that everyone in the city knows, but that most guidebooks skip, and that fewer non-Sarajevans know than should. It...
Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife Sophie Chotek were assassinated in Sarajevo on Sunday 28 June 1914 by Gavrilo Princip, a nineteen-year-old...
Trans-Siberian Orchestra’s Christmas Eve/Sarajevo 12/24 is a six-minute rock instrumental combining God Rest Ye Merry, Gentlemen with Carol of the Bells. Originally released in...
The 1984 Winter Olympics were held in Sarajevo — twelve days on mountains that eight years later became artillery positions. The bobsled track on...
Igor Boras had never bobsledded. He was a 100-metre sprinter who joined the Bosnian bobsled team because he wanted to be in the Olympics....
Some siege stories are about buildings. Some are about numbers. This one is about a book. On the night of 22 April 1992, an...
Before 1914, upper-class British tourists visited Bosnia, not despite its ‘Oriental’ character but because of it. The country was branded to them as a...
The Sarajevo Tunnel, dug by hand in 1993 between two houses on either side of the UN-controlled airport runway, was the city’s lifeline for...
Everyone at the Ottoman court in 1814 knew Sarajevo was difficult. What most people don’t know is that in that year the city won....
The short answer: yes, Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The longer answer is worth reading. The city was founded around 1462...
Everyone knows the Nazis burned books. What most people don’t know is that the single largest book-burning in recorded history happened in Sarajevo on...
The Siege of Sarajevo lasted 1,425 days, from 5 April 1992 to 29 February 1996, making it the longest siege in modern European history....
LANGUAGE
1 story
Bazardžani. Bravadžiluk. Čizmedžiluk. Sarajevo’s bazaar streets sit on the page like a typo. Here is how to read them, mispronounce them, and survive the...
MEMORY
1 story
Sarajevo Roses are the red-resin markers in the pavement of the city, filling the craters where mortar shells fell during the 1992–1995 siege and...
MUSIC
2 stories
The Bosnian word sevdah comes from the Arabic sawda, meaning melancholy. The music it names is older than the American blues and shares an...
Sevdah is Bosnia’s blues. Songs of love, longing, and loss, sung over saz and accordion in small rooms that smell of plum brandy and...
OUTDOORS
2 stories
For the price of a tram ticket and a cable-car fare you can swap café noise for pine silence and watch Sarajevo light up...
Forty minutes from the city you can ski on the same slopes that hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, for a fraction of the cost...
PRACTICAL
3 stories
The canton’s development strategy cites three numbers that, taken together, form one of the sharpest paradoxes in the Sarajevan economy: 184th out of 190...
The seven censuses story covers Sarajevan demographic history from the 1851 Ottoman register to the 2013 post-war census. This piece covers what happened next:...
The air-pollution story covers when the air is bad and when it isn’t. This piece covers what the canton’s own government says about it,...
TRANSPORT
1 story
The Sarajevo cable car ran between Bistrik and the summit of Trebević from April 1959 to April 1992, then not at all for twenty-six...
WALKS
7 stories
A 45-minute linear walk uphill from the bazaar to the Yellow Fortress. Start at Čajdžinica Džirlo, climb through Kovači Cemetery, pass Ministry of Ćejf...
A 1.2 km flat walk west from the Meeting of Cultures brass line to Marijin Dvor, through the full Habsburg architectural programme of Sarajevo....
A 90-minute circular walk through Sarajevo’s old bazaar. Start at the Sebilj, cross into the coppersmiths’ alley, pass the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, the Morića...
Sarajevo sits in a valley, which is why every walk uphill is also a free viewing platform. Nine vantage points worth the climb, ranked...
Sarajevo is the European capital where the seam between Ottoman and Habsburg architecture is marked by a brass plate set into a pedestrian street....
A pigeon-soundtracked, coffee-paced wander through Sarajevo’s 1462 Ottoman bazaar. The places locals love and the ones travellers usually miss.
Walk the Miljacka from Vijećnica to Skenderija and you cross five centuries of architecture without leaving the riverbank.
