The three you should not skip
National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina — Karel Pařík's 1909–1913 four-pavilion complex on Zmaja od Bosne, modelled on the Vienna Ringstrasse layout (Trapara, INALCO/IBU, 2019). Houses the Sarajevo Haggadah in a climate-controlled room, the Butmir Neolithic collection, and the natural history and ethnography pavilions. The museum was damaged in the siege, closed from October 2012 to September 2015 during a political-funding dispute, and is now open again.
Tunnel of Hope — The D-B tunnel (Dobrinja–Butmir), dug between March and July 1993, ran approximately 800 metres under the airport runway at a height of 1.6 metres. It carried food, weapons, fuel, electricity cables, and people. Today a 25-metre section is preserved, with a small museum at the Kolar family house. The tunnel was also the Tunnel of Smugglers — Helen Orr's ethnographic fieldwork at UNC Chapel Hill (2019) documents its economic second life.
War Childhood Museum — Founded by Jasminko Halilović, who asked siege-era children (now adults) for one object and one sentence each. The result is the most quietly devastating museum in the city. Council of Europe Museum Prize 2018. Located on Logavina, a 10-minute walk uphill from Ferhadija.