Explore Sarajevo Hidden Gems

Featured Kovači, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Ministry of Ćejf

Bosnia's first third-wave specialty coffee café — opened by an Australian-Bosnian actor, named after the local word for slow, intentional pleasure, and ranked the top coffeehouse in Sarajevo.

By Nedim Mid-morning, before the terrace fills 30 gems in 18 neighbourhoods

Photograph: Ministry of Ćejf · Used with permission

Neighbourhood 01

Baščaršija

5 gems

Baščaršija

Sarajevo Dibek

Sarajevo’s oldest active coffee house, where the beans are pounded on a stone mortar, the dibek, rather than ground. The flavour is unmistakable. The...

By Nedim Mid-afternoon, when the bazaar is loudest

Baščaršija

Sarajevo Ćevabdžinica Hodžić

A three-time Golden Crown winner on Bravadžiluk, opened in the early 2000s and now considered one of the four classic Sarajevo ćevabdžinicas alongside Željo,...

By Nedim Dinner on a weekday evening

Baščaršija

Sarajevo Ćevabdžinica Mrkva

Sarajevo’s largest ćevapi chain, opened in 1963 on Bravadžiluk and now grilling at six addresses across the city. The signature is Argentine charcoal, deeper...

By Nedim Weekday afternoon, before the dinner queue

Baščaršija

Sarajevo Petica Ferhatović

Sarajevo’s oldest still-active ćevapi restaurant, opened in 1957 by the Ferhatović family. Three generations in, slightly quieter than Željo, equally serious about the meat....

By Nedim Late lunch on a weekday

Baščaršija

Sarajevo Ćevabdžinica Željo

The most famous ćevabdžinica in Sarajevo, opened in 1968 on Kundurdžiluk. Two branches face each other across the street. Locals divide on which is...

By Nedim Late lunch around 14:00, after the office crowd

Neighbourhood 02

Centar

4 gems

Centar

Sarajevo Café Barometar

A café-bar with one of the best-looking interiors in central Sarajevo, exposed brick walls, metal piping, vintage machinery as decor, handmade furniture, and unusual...

By Nedim Late afternoon, when day-light gives the interior its best mood

Centar

Sarajevo Museum 1878–1918

A single ground-floor museum at the north foot of the Latin Bridge. The building was Moritz Schiller’s Delicatessen in 1914; Princip stood at this...

By Nedim A weekday morning, before 11:00. The corner gets crowded with tour groups after that, and the museum's two rooms are small.

Centar

Sarajevo Viennese Café

The Viennese Café at Hotel Europe is the city’s oldest continuously-running coffeehouse, painted ceilings, crystal chandeliers, a long wooden bar, and a menu that...

By Nedim Mid-morning, when the breakfast crowd has gone and the room is quiet

Centar

Sarajevo Zlatna Ribica

Zlatna Ribica is a tiny bar near Sarajevo Cathedral with a museum-like interior, good coffee and drinks, friendly service, and very little room to...

By Nedim Late evening

Neighbourhood 03

Kovači, Stari Grad

3 gems

Kovači, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Čajdžinica Džirlo

A tiny teahouse on a cobbled lane above the Sebilj, where Husein and Dijana Džirlo serve 53 different teas, traditional Bosnian coffee, and salep...

By Nedim Cold afternoons; the warmth of the room is part of the appeal

Kovači, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Ministry of Ćejf

Bosnia’s first third-wave specialty coffee shop, opened in 2018 by Rešad Strik — a former Hollywood and Ertuğrul actor who came to visit his...

By Nedim Mid-morning, before the terrace fills

Kovači, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Pekara kod Mahira

A small no-fuss bakery on Kovači street, two minutes uphill from the Sebilj. Burek, sirnica, krompiruša, zeljanica, somun, occasional pizza. The kind of place...

By Nedim Early morning, fresh out of the oven

Neighbourhood 04

Bistrik

2 gems

Bistrik

Sarajevo At Mejdan

A quiet park on the south bank of the Miljacka, named in Ottoman Turkish for “Horse Square”, a 15th-century horse track and trading ground,...

By Nedim Late afternoon, any season

Bistrik

Sarajevo Brewery — Sarajevska Pivara

Sarajevo’s working brewery, founded 1864. The oldest industrial plant in Bosnia and Herzegovina, by 1907 the largest brewery in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Its natural...

By Nedim Late afternoon for the beer hall, weekday morning for the museum

Neighbourhood 05

Marijin Dvor

2 gems

Marijin Dvor

Sarajevo National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina

The Zemaljski muzej is Bosnia and Herzegovina’s national museum, opened in 1888 by the Austro-Hungarian administration of Benjamin von Kállay. Its four pavilions hold...

By Nedim A weekday morning. The Haggadah vault opens at scheduled times within the day — ask at the front desk on arrival.

Neighbourhood 06

Sedrenik, Stari Grad

2 gems

Sedrenik, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Bašča kod Ene

Bašča kod Ene is a quiet, family-run traditional restaurant in the residential Sedrenik mahala on the northern slope above the old town. Cevapi, slow-cooked...

By Nedim Long lunch in spring or summer, when the garden tables are set

Sedrenik, Stari Grad

Sarajevo 7 Šuma — kod Minje

Where to eat lamb in Sarajevo? 7 Šuma (Seven Forests), locally called Restoran Minjo, is a family-run traditional Bosnian restaurant high on the Sedrenik...

By Nedim A long lunch on a clear day, when the view down the valley is at its widest

Neighbourhood 07

Baščaršija, Stari Grad

1 gem

Baščaršija, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Dveri

Dveri (the name means “gates”) is the well-loved family-run restaurant tucked just off Sarači on Prote Bakovića, behind heavy carved wooden doors. Traditional Bosnian...

By Nedim An early dinner; the room becomes warm and lamplit after about six

Neighbourhood 08

Centar / Stari Grad border

1 gem

Neighbourhood 09

East of the city

1 gem

East of the city

Sarajevo Kozija Ćuprija

An Ottoman stone bridge from the mid-1500s, in the Miljacka gorge four kilometres east of Sarajevo. Once on the main caravan road to Istanbul....

By Nedim Late afternoon in autumn, when the gorge is gold

Neighbourhood 10

Faletići, north slopes

1 gem

Faletići, north slopes

Sarajevo Vrelo Mošćanice

The smaller of Sarajevo’s two natural springs, on the city’s northern slopes above Faletići. A short steep walk, an icy pool, no infrastructure. Locals...

By Nedim Hot summer days; spring after rain for full flow

Neighbourhood 11

Halači, Stari Grad

1 gem

Halači, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Art Kuća Sevdaha

The Sevdah Art House is a small restored 18th-century Bosnian residence in Baščaršija dedicated to the city’s defining musical tradition. Portraits, instruments, recordings, occasional...

By Nedim An afternoon visit; evenings if there's a live performance

Neighbourhood 12

Hrid, Stari Grad

1 gem

Hrid, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Park Prinčeva

A long-running family-run restaurant on Iza Hrida above the south bank of the Miljacka, looking straight across at Vijećnica and down into Baščaršija. Traditional...

By Nedim An hour before sunset, in summer

Neighbourhood 13

Ilidža

1 gem

Ilidža

Sarajevo Rimski Most

A 16th-century Ottoman bridge in Ilidža, built from the dismantled stones of the Roman bridge that crossed the Bosna river here when this was...

By Nedim Spring or autumn afternoon

Neighbourhood 14

Sarači, Stari Grad

1 gem

Sarači, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Caffe Divan

Caffe Divan is the small café that occupies the courtyard of Morića Han — Sarajevo’s only surviving Ottoman han (traveller’s inn), at Sarači 77....

By Nedim Mid-afternoon, when the courtyard is in soft light and the bazaar's noise muffles to the level of the fountain

Neighbourhood 15

Stari Grad (Logavina)

1 gem

Stari Grad (Logavina)

Sarajevo War Childhood Museum

The Muzej ratnog djetinjstva is the only museum in the world dedicated to children’s experience of war. Founded in Sarajevo in 2017 by Jasminko...

By Nedim Mid-morning or early afternoon. The rooms are small and a quiet visit reads better than a crowded one.

Neighbourhood 16

Vratnik, Stari Grad

1 gem

Vratnik, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Caffe Kamarija

A modest café tucked into the slope above Baščaršija, on the cobbled path that follows the old Vratnik rampart. The bazaar is laid out...

By Nedim One hour before sunset

Neighbourhood 17

Vrbanjuša, Stari Grad

1 gem

Vrbanjuša, Stari Grad

Sarajevo Kibe Mahala

A long-standing traditional Bosnian restaurant on the northern slope above the old town, near the road to Sedrenik. House cooking, lamb, sač, slow-simmered stews,...

By Nedim Late lunch on a clear day; early dinner in summer

Neighbourhood 18

Wilson's Promenade

1 gem

Wilson's Promenade

Sarajevo Caffe Tito

A café-museum dedicated to Josip Broz Tito, last leader of socialist Yugoslavia. Inside, walls of communist-era memorabilia, vintage telephones, busts, and newspaper clippings. Outside,...

By Nedim Late afternoon for the riverside terrace

"The best parts of Sarajevo are the parts you have to be told about, by someone who has time for you."

— A line we keep hearing, and keep believing.