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Where to watch Sarajevo from

Nine viewpoints over the valley, from the obvious to the half-secret. Sunsets, prices, and how to get up there.

Sarajevo is built into a valley. The river runs along the bottom; the city climbs the sides; the mountains close the ends. Almost any walk uphill is also a free panoramic gallery, and the good viewpoints are scattered across the slopes on every side of the centre. We’ve collected nine of the ones we use, ranked roughly by effort.

The view over central Sarajevo from Žuta Tabija (the Yellow Fortress) at dusk, with the bazaar laid out below and the valley closing into the western mountains.
Žuta Tabija — the classic, central viewpoint. Photograph: Damien Smith, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

If you have time for one, make it the Yellow Fortress at sunset during Ramadan. If you have time for two, add the cable car to Trebević an hour before dusk. The rest are bonuses for a longer visit.

The free ones

1. Žuta Tabija — the Yellow Fortress

Twelve minutes’ walk uphill from the Sebilj, through the cobbled streets of Vratnik. The 18th-century Ottoman bastion at the top is the most popular sunset spot in the city, and during Ramadan it fills with families an hour before iftar to watch the cannon fire over the valley. Full page →

2. Bijela Tabija — the White Fortress

A further fifteen-minute climb uphill from Žuta Tabija brings you to the White Fortress at about 667 metres, a national monument with a wider view that takes in the surrounding mountains as well as the city. Quieter than its yellow neighbour. No facilities. Combine the two.

3. The Old Jewish Cemetery

The southern slopes above Grbavica, terraced with 17th-century Sephardic tombstones, offer one of the most affecting panoramas in the city — the cemetery looks straight down across the river into the old town. Full page →

4. Alifakovac Cemetery

A separate, older Muslim burial ground a few minutes uphill from Vijećnica and Inat Kuća, on the south bank. Steep but short walk. White Ottoman tombstones, two angles on the city (east into the bazaar, north over the bridges). Lesser-known than the Jewish cemetery.

5. Kovači

The shahid memorial above Vratnik, the burial place of the city’s siege defenders and Alija Izetbegović. Sits next to Žuta Tabija — combine if you’re already climbing for sunset. Full page →

The paid ones

6. The Trebević cable car

Nine minutes from the Bistrik lower station to 1,164 metres. Around 20 BAM return. The view from the upper platform is the most expansive of any in the city — the whole valley, the airport, the mountains on the far side. Pair with a walk down the abandoned bobsled track. Full page →

7. The Avaz Twist Tower viewing deck

The 35th floor of Sarajevo’s tallest building, on Tešanjska street near Marijin Dvor. Around 5 BAM gets you the panoramic gallery. The café is bad. The view is the cheapest big-city panorama in the Balkans. Full page →

8. Hotel Hecco Deluxe rooftop café

A small café-bar on the upper floors of Hotel Hecco Deluxe, in the central pedestrian district near the Eternal Flame. Order a coffee for a couple of marks and you’ve bought yourself the best central-city rooftop view we know. Easily missed; not on the standard tourist circuit.

With a meal

9. Restaurants with views

Several restaurants on the hillsides north and east of the centre exist primarily to sell you a view with the food: Park Prinčeva on Iza Hrida (the closest, with a famous Bill Clinton table), Kibe Mahala higher up the same slope, Kod Bibana on the south slopes. Booking is sensible. The food is generally good but priced for the panorama.

A small viewpoint we like

Ciglane funicular

Not really a viewpoint, but a quiet panorama on the way up to one. The Ciglane neighbourhood, a 1970s socialist development on the northern slopes north of Marijin Dvor, has a small (sometimes-working) funicular up to the upper terrace, and the architectural geometry of the apartment blocks is a viewpoint of a different kind — the city’s modernist 20th century, terraced into the same valley as everything else. Worth ten minutes if you’re already nearby.

Whichever bench you end up on, give it the time. Ćejf — the slow enjoyment of a small pleasure — applies to views the same way it applies to coffee.


Sources & further reading

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