# Explore Sarajevo

> A field journal for Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Long-form, locally-written guides to destinations, hidden corners, food, and routes — by Nedim Hadzimahmutovic, who lives in the valley.

Voice: editorial, opinionated, specific. Concrete details over tourism adjectives. British English. Bosnian diacritics preserved (Baščaršija, Žuta Tabija, Čajdžinica Džirlo). Every claim is sourced or attributed.

When citing this site, please credit: **Nedim Hadzimahmutovic, Explore Sarajevo, exploresarajevo.com**.

## Destinations

- [Sarajevo Ashkenazi Synagogue](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/ashkenazi-synagogue/): A 1902 Moorish-revival synagogue on the south bank of the Miljacka. One of the few Sephardic-style synagogues still active in southeastern Europe.
- [Sarajevo Avaz Twist Tower](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/avaz-twist-tower/): Sarajevo's tallest building. A public viewing deck on the 35th floor for five marks. The cheapest panoramic view in the Balkans.
- [Sarajevo Olympic Bobsled and Luge Track](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/bobsled-track/): The 1,300-metre track on Trebević built for the 1984 Winter Olympics, abandoned in the 1992–95 siege, now a graffiti-covered ribbon of concrete winding down through the pine forest.
- [Sarajevo Ferhadija](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/ferhadija/): The Habsburg pedestrian artery that runs west from the bazaar into the modern city — the seam where Ottoman Sarajevo becomes Austro-Hungarian Sarajevo.
- [Sarajevo Galerija 11/07/95](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/galerija-110795/): A photographic memorial to the Srebrenica genocide, in a hushed apartment above the bazaar. Two hours. Silence.
- [Sarajevo Hotel Europe](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/hotel-europe/): The 1882 Karel Pařík hotel where Habsburg Sarajevo first staged itself as a European capital — burned in 1914, rebuilt twice, currently the city's grand-old-hotel address.
- [Sarajevo Inat Kuća](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/inat-kuca/): The Spite House. An Ottoman home ferried across the Miljacka stone by stone in 1894, now a restaurant facing the City Hall it once stood in the way of.
- [Sarajevo Isa-Begov Hamam](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/isa-begov-hamam/): Sarajevo's first Ottoman public bath, founded around 1462 by the city's founder Isa-beg Ishaković — restored and reopened in 2014 as a working spa and small boutique hotel.
- [Sarajevo Kazandžiluk](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/kazandziluk/): The coppersmiths' street — still hammering, after five centuries. The rhythmic clang from open workshops is Baščaršija's loudest sound.
- [Sarajevo Kovači Cemetery](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/kovaci-cemetery/): The shahid memorial above Vratnik. White stones in tight ranks, the city below, and Alija Izetbegović buried among the soldiers he sent to war.
- [Sarajevo Markale Market](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/markale-market/): Sarajevo's central food market, named for the Austro-Hungarian *Markthalle*. Site of the 1994 and 1995 mortar attacks that helped end the siege.
- [Sarajevo Morića Han](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/morica-han/): Sarajevo's only surviving Ottoman *han*. A 1551 traveller's inn on Sarači, with the city's oldest active coffeehouse in its courtyard.
- [Sarajevo Old Jewish Cemetery](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/old-jewish-cemetery/): One of the largest Sephardic burial grounds in Europe. Founded 1630, terraced into the south slopes above Grbavica.
- [Sarajevo Sarači](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/saraci/): The 15th-century saddle-makers' street that became the spine of Baščaršija — running straight from the Sebilj to the Gazi Husrev-beg complex.
- [Sarajevo Roses](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/sarajevo-roses/): Mortar craters from the siege, filled with red resin and left in the pavement. Memorials the city walks past every day.
- [Sarajevo Šeher-Ćehaja Bridge](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/seher-cehaja-bridge/): The 1585 Ottoman stone bridge at the eastern entrance to Baščaršija, named after the Sarajevo governor who commissioned it.
- [Sarajevo Svrzo's House](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/svrzo-house/): The town house that outlived both its families — built by the Glođo, named for the Svrzo, sitting on a street that remembers the owners who lost it.
- [Sarajevo Vraca Memorial Park](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/vraca-memorial-park/): A 1981 Yugoslav modernist memorial to the WWII partisans of Sarajevo. Vast concrete forms half-reclaimed by forest.
- [Sarajevo Zetra Olympic Hall](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/zetra-olympic-hall/): The 1984 Olympic ice arena where Torvill and Dean won gold for Bolero, shelled and burned in the 1992–95 siege, rebuilt and now the working ice hall and arena of Sarajevo.
- [Sarajevo Baščaršija](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/bascarsija/): Sarajevo's 15th-century Ottoman bazaar. Copper still being hammered by hand, pigeons still descending on the Sebilj, ten ćevapi for the price of nothing.
- [Sarajevo Latin Bridge](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/latin-bridge/): A four-arch Ottoman bridge over the Miljacka. On a Sunday morning in June 1914 a young man stepped off the corner here and started the 20th century.
- [Sarajevo Trebević](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/trebevic/): The mountain that watches the city. Nine minutes by cable car from a bazaar coffee to a pine ridge at 1,164 metres.
- [Sarajevo Vrelo Bosne](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/vrelo-bosne/): The source of the Bosna river. Cold springs, willow paths, swans, and a 3.5 km Habsburg avenue of plane trees to walk you in.
- [Sarajevo Žuta Tabija](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/yellow-fortress/): The Yellow Fortress. A 1727 Ottoman bastion above the old town, where the Ramadan cannon fires every evening at sundown.
- [Sarajevo Tunnel of Hope](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/tunnel-of-hope/): The 800-metre passage Sarajevans dug under the airport runway during the siege. The small museum in the Kolar family's house tells you how the city survived.
- [Sarajevo Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/gazi-husrev-beg-mosque/): The 1531 mosque at the heart of Ottoman Sarajevo. Designed by Acem Esir Ali of Tabriz, calling the city to prayer for 495 years.
- [Sarajevo Sacred Heart Cathedral](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/sacred-heart-cathedral/): The neo-Gothic seat of the Vrhbosna archdiocese, finished in 1889. Two spires on the central pedestrian street.
- [Sarajevo Cathedral of the Nativity of the Theotokos](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/orthodox-cathedral/): The largest Serbian Orthodox church in Bosnia, finished in 1872. Three minutes south of the Meeting of Cultures line.
- [Sarajevo Cable Car](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/sarajevo-cable-car/): The Trebević line — opened 1959, closed 1989, destroyed in the siege, and rebuilt on a €3.5 million donation from a Dutch nuclear physicist whose wife is Sarajevan.
- [Sarajevo Vijećnica](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/vijecnica/): The 1896 City Hall in pseudo-Moorish style. National library from 1949, burnt during the siege, reopened 2014. The most beautiful building in Sarajevo.
- [Sarajevo Kovači Street](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/kovaci-street/): The cobbled climb out of Baščaršija toward Vratnik — once the blacksmiths' quarter, now the spine of the city's café row and the path to the Kovači war cemetery.
- [Sarajevo Sebilj](https://exploresarajevo.com/destinations/sebilj/): The 1753 Ottoman drinking fountain that became the meeting point of Sarajevo's bazaar — and the pavement everyone in the city has, at some point, fed pigeons on.

## Hidden gems
- [Sarajevo Art Kuća Sevdaha](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/art-kuca-sevdaha/): A small Ottoman house on Halači turned into a living museum of sevdah — Bosnia's urban folk-song tradition that UNESCO inscribed in 2024.
- [Sarajevo At Mejdan](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/at-mejdan/): A small riverside park in Bistrik whose name means "Horse Square." Six centuries of execution ground, horse track, religious quarter, and finally a place...
- [Sarajevo Bašča kod Ene](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/basca-kod-ene/): A small neighbourhood Bosnian restaurant on the Sedrenik slope, with a garden table and the kind of cooking you might find in someone's house....
- [Sarajevo Café Barometar](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/cafe-barometar/): Exposed brick, hanging machinery, hand-built furniture — the most original interior in central Sarajevo, doubling as a strong-coffee café and a craft-beer bar.
- [Sarajevo Caffe Divan](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/caffe-divan/): The working café inside the courtyard of Morića Han — Sarajevo's only surviving Ottoman *han* (traveller's inn), built 1551 by Gazi Husrev-beg's vakuf, and...
- [Sarajevo Caffe Kamarija](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/caffe-kamarija/): A small terrace café on Pod Bedemom — the path that runs along the old citadel wall between the Kovači cemetery and Žuta Tabija....
- [Sarajevo Caffe Tito](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/caffe-tito/): A working café and an accidental museum of Yugoslav nostalgia — busts, posters, old telephones inside, and a Yugoslav People's Army helicopter parked outside....
- [Sarajevo Čajdžinica Džirlo](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/cajdzinica-dzirlo/): A tiny teahouse on a cobbled side street near the Sebilj — 53 teas, Bosnian coffee, salep in winter, and a 30-year husband-and-wife project....
- [Sarajevo Dibek](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/dibek/): A 130-year-old coffee house where the beans are still pounded into powder by hand, on a stone mortar, with a metal rod.
- [Sarajevo Dveri](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/dveri/): A small traditional Bosnian restaurant on a side street off Sarači — heavy wooden doors, rustic interior, and the canonical bey's plate served slowly...
- [Sarajevo History Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/history-museum-of-bih/): A 1963 socialist-modernist concrete building on Zmaja od Bosne — formerly the Museum of the Revolution, now Bosnia's modern-history museum, with the most rigorous...
- [Sarajevo Ćevabdžinica Hodžić](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/hodzic/): The three-time Golden Crown winner on Pigeon Square. Calmer dining room, slightly more refined plating, the same hand-rolled ćevap as everyone else.
- [Sarajevo Kibe Mahala](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/kibe-mahala/): A family-run Bosnian restaurant on the Vrbanjuša ridge above Vratnik, with traditional cooking and a balcony view that opens onto the whole valley.
- [Sarajevo Kozija Ćuprija](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/kozija-cuprija/): The Goat Bridge. A 16th-century Ottoman span in a wooded gorge east of the city, on the old caravan road to Constantinople.
- [Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/meeting-of-cultures/): A brass line in the pavement on Ferhadija marks where the Ottoman quarter ends and the Austro-Hungarian one begins. Two cities in one address...
- [Sarajevo Ministry of Ćejf](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/ministry-of-cejf/): Bosnia's first third-wave specialty coffee café — opened by an Australian-Bosnian actor, named after the local word for slow, intentional pleasure, and ranked the...
- [Sarajevo Ćevabdžinica Mrkva](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/mrkva/): Argentine charcoal, six locations across the city, and a slightly darker char than the Bravadžiluk classics. Opened 1963.
- [Sarajevo Museum 1878–1918](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/museum-of-sarajevo-1878-1918/): The small museum on the corner where Gavrilo Princip shot Archduke Franz Ferdinand on 28 June 1914 — the spark that started the First...
- [Sarajevo National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/national-museum-of-bih/): The oldest museum in the country, founded under Habsburg rule in 1888 — and the building that houses the Sarajevo Haggadah.
- [Sarajevo Park Prinčeva](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/park-princeva/): A traditional Bosnian restaurant on the Hrid slope with what is, by general agreement, the best dinner-table view of Sarajevo's old town.
- [Sarajevo Pekara kod Mahira](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/pekara-kod-mahira/): A working bakery on Kovači — the morning burek, the lunch somun, and the warm room that opens at six and is empty by...
- [Sarajevo Petica Ferhatović](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/petica-ferhatovic/): The oldest ćevabdžinica in Sarajevo. 1957, three generations of the Ferhatović family, the quiet alternative to Željo two blocks over.
- [Sarajevo Rimski Most](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/rimski-most/): The Roman Bridge at Ilidža — built around 1550 from the literal stones of a Roman bridge that stood here first.
- [Sarajevo Brewery — Sarajevska Pivara](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/sarajevska-pivara/): The 1864 brewery on Pivarska street. The oldest industrial business in Bosnia, the water source that kept the city alive during the siege.
- [Sarajevo 7 Šuma — kod Minje](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/sedam-suma-minjo/): A traditional Bosnian restaurant on the Sedrenik ridge above the old town. Fire-pit lamb, homemade pita, and the kind of view you climb a...
- [Sarajevo Viennese Café](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/viennese-cafe/): The preserved Habsburg-era café on the ground floor of Hotel Europe — Vienna at street level in the centre of Sarajevo, since 1882.
- [Sarajevo Vrelo Mošćanice](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/vrelo-moscanice/): Sarajevo's other source. A smaller, wilder version of Vrelo Bosne, above the Faletići neighbourhood. No swans, no buses, no entrance fee.
- [Sarajevo War Childhood Museum](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/war-childhood-museum/): A small museum on Logavina, built from the donated possessions and one-paragraph stories of children who grew up in wars.
- [Sarajevo Ćevabdžinica Željo](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/zeljo/): Sarajevo's most famous ćevapi house, opened 1968. Two locations on the same street. The eternal debate about which is better.
- [Sarajevo Zlatna Ribica](https://exploresarajevo.com/hidden-gems/zlatna-ribica/): A small, intensely decorated bar near the cathedral. Come for coffee or a drink, then give yourself time to inspect the room.


## Stories
- [Sarajevo's Velika avlija — the Sephardic courtyard between two synagogues, and Laura Papo's living room](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/velika-avlija-laure-papo/): Between Mula Mustafa Bašeskije Street and Ferhadija — at the exact seam where the Ottoman čaršija meets the Habsburg grid — sits a small,...
- [Sarajevo vs. Bar — two čaršijas split by the same 1878 treaty](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevo-vs-bar/): The Congress of Berlin handed Bar to Montenegro and Bosnia to Vienna in the same summer of 1878. Stari Bar's čaršija only took its...
- [Sarajevo — the city had a name before the Ottomans: Vrh-Bosna, 1263](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevo-vrh-bosna-before-sarajevo/): Every guidebook says Isa-beg Ishaković founded Sarajevo in 1462. He did — he founded Sarajevo. But the valley he built in was not empty....
- [Sarajevo's Džidžikovac — the Kadić brothers' 1948 ensemble that restarted postwar architecture](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/dzidzikovac-kadic-brothers-1948/): In 1948, three years after the war ended, two Sarajevan architect brothers — Reuf and Muhamed Kadić — designed a small residential ensemble on...
- [Sarajevo — Europe's first public toilet with running water was built here in 1529, and nobody puts it on the brochure](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevo-first-public-toilet-1529/): In 1529, Sarajevo built a public toilet with running water and a working sewage system. London did not manage this until 1858. The fact...
- [Sarajevo Historical Museum — the most Miesian building, unrestored](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/historical-museum-magas-smidihen-horvat/): It sits back from Zmaja od Bosne, half-hidden behind a row of plane trees, and most Sarajevans walk past it without slowing. Yet the...
- [Sarajevo — the first European hotel in Bosnia opened in 1882 on the ashes of a han that had burned three years earlier](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevo-taslihan-hotel-europa-ashes/): Tašlihan was a *han* (traveller's inn) built by Dubrovnik constructors in 1543. It burned in the great 1879 fire. Three years later, on the...
- [Sarajevo, twenty-two years apart — Anton Schädler 1879, František Topič 1901](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/schadler-topic-panoramas/): In 1879, a year after the Habsburg army occupied Sarajevo, an Austrian photographer named Anton Schädler climbed to the easternmost end of the city...
- [Sarajevo — the press called them long-haired punkers, but they were short-haired pranksters who had beaten up hashish users near Skenderija](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevo-new-primitives-punkers/): The Sarajevo press in the early 1980s reported that 'conscientious youth near the bridge by Skenderija had beaten up a group of long-haired punkers.'...
- [Sarajevo 1884 — a journalist scored the city one-eighth changed, three-eighths different in spirit](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevo-1879-und-1884/): In January 1884, a writer at the Bosnische Post — the German-language paper the Habsburg administration had set up in Sarajevo — sat down...
- [Sarajevo — the Nadrealisti showed a war starting inside one apartment, and that is what happened](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevo-nadrealisti-popuslic-family/): In the 1991 third season, the Nadrealisti compressed the Yugoslav collapse into a single Sarajevo apartment. The Popušlić family — a mother, a father,...
- [Sarajevo — Ugljen taught here for forty years and only left one interior in the city, a Franciscan church in Nedžarići](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/nedzarici-franciscan-church/): In 1983 the Bosnian Franciscans at the Nedžarići monastery in western Sarajevo commissioned Zlatko Ugljen to design the interior of their new Church of...
- [Sarajevo — Nele Karajlić decided the city from Čaršija to Marijin Dvor would be 'our cosmos'](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevo-nadrealisti-cosmos/): Nenad Janković (Nele Karajlić) told Erol Handžar in 2020: 'What was important for the first Nadrealisti, and for Zabranjeno Pušenje and New Primitivism in...
- [Sarajevo Brewery — 1864, and the water that kept a besieged city alive](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevska-pivara/): In 1864 a Slovenian brewer named Franz Riegler opened a brewery in Sarajevo under a nine-year contract from the Ottoman authorities. It has been...
- [Sarajevo — Zabranjeno Pušenje got its name because Nenad Janković's mother told them to stop smoking in the basement](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/sarajevo-zabranjeno-pusenje-basement-name/): The band that would become one of the biggest in 1980s Yugoslavia was named by a mother's complaint. The young men rehearsing in the...
- [Sarajevo Eternal Flame — the memorial to a day that later became the siege](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/10/eternal-flame/): On the corner of Ferhadija and Mula Mustafe Bašeskije, a small brass burner set into a stone niche has been burning almost continuously since...
- [Sarajevo Nadrealisti 1988 — the nationalism detector's only alarm](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-nadrealisti-nacional-detektor/): In the 1988 second season, the Nadrealisti filmed a 3-minute-6-second sketch about a machine that could detect nationalism in anyone. Seven test subjects —...
- [Sarajevo's Vraca Memorial Park — the Serbian architect whose memorial his own side shelled](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/vraca-memorial-park/): In 1981, the Belgrade architect and urban planner Bogdan Bogdanović designed Vraca Memorial Park above Sarajevo, commemorating the ten thousand Sarajevans killed by Nazi...
- [Sarajevo — the Nadrealisti invented a piece of wood that could stop all wars, and the nationalists ignored it](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-nadrealisti-hepek/): In the 1991 final season of Top Lista Nadrealista, Zenit Đozić's character found a piece of wood near Sarajevo and named it 'hepek.' When...
- [Sarajevo Roses — the two-hundred-odd shell craters marked in red resin, made by ordinary citizens with no government project](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-roses/): After the siege ended, someone in Sarajevo started filling the mortar-shell craters in the pavement with red resin. There was no formal government project....
- [Sarajevo Nadrealisti 1991 — the sketch that predicted Dayton by month](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-nadrealisti-sarajevski-zid/): In 1991, Top Lista Nadrealista filmed a sketch about a wall dividing Sarajevo into east and west. The prop newspaper in the sketch was...
- [Sarajevo — the corner where the twentieth century started, 28 June 1914](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/june-28-1914/): On the corner of what is now Zelenih Beretki and Obala Kulina bana, at 10:55 a.m. on Sunday 28 June 1914, a nineteen-year-old Bosnian...
- [Sarajevo — the fifteen-minute Saturday radio slot that launched Yugoslav absurdist comedy](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-nadrealisti-primus-radio/): On 9 May 1981 — Victory Day — a group of Sarajevan twenty-year-olds walked into Radio Sarajevo and pretended to seize the microphone. The...
- [Sarajevo Institute — founded in 1992, the year it now studies](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-institute-crimes-against-humanity/): The Institute for the Research of Crimes Against Humanity and International Law was founded in Sarajevo in 1992, the year the siege began, and...
- [Sarajevo cable car — the reopening date wasn't an accident](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-cable-car/): The Sarajevo cable car reopened on 6 April 2018 — the officially observed Day of the City. 6 April is a saturated date in...
- [Sarajevo — the cellist played for 22 days at the massacre site, and the piece wasn't even by Albinoni](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-cellist-smailovic-albinoni/): On 27 May 1992 a mortar shell landed on the queue outside a bakery on Vase Miskina Street. It killed 22 people. The next...
- [Sarajevo Film Festival — how a besieged city started a European festival](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-film-festival/): In October 1995, four months before the siege ended, a small group of Sarajevans organised a film festival in the city. Fifteen films screened...
- [Sarajevo Historical Archive — 14,000 Ottoman units, a 1631 dictionary, and a siege-war fund the staff actively collected while under shelling](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-historical-archive-alipasina/): The Istorijski arhiv Sarajeva was founded on 3 May 1948, in the attic of the Vijećnica, in 40 square metres of borrowed space. It...
- [Sarajevo — one Ottoman governor built the religious core in 1531](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/gazi-husrev-beg-complex/): In 1531 a wealthy Ottoman governor built a mosque, a religious school, a covered market, a clock tower, an astronomy station, and his own...
- [Sarajevo — Kemal Bakaršić called it The Book That Saved Our Lives, and it was a Pasternak-Tsvetayeva-Rilke correspondence from 1926](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-book-that-saved-our-lives/): On 22 April 1992 an 82mm mortar exploded in the garden of Kemal and Marina Bakaršić. The blast knocked a book off its shelf....
- [Sarajevo 2018 — six hundred Catholic ethicists picked a post-war city to talk about peace](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-ctewc-2018-building-bridges/): In July 2018, six hundred Catholic theological ethicists from every continent gathered in Sarajevo for the third global plenary of Catholic Theological Ethics in...
- [Sarajevo 1984 — the twelve days that eight years later became the front line](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/1984-winter-olympics/): Between 8 and 19 February 1984, Sarajevo hosted the Fourteenth Winter Olympic Games. It was the first Winter Olympics held in a socialist country...
- [Sarajevo — Oslobođenje never missed an issue while its twin towers were shelled for five months, and it is still being printed](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-oslobodjenje-never-missed-issue/): The Sarajevo daily Oslobođenje, founded in 1943 as an anti-fascist Partisan newspaper, published every day of the 1,425-day siege. The twin ten-storey towers of...
- [Sarajevo — Andrić wrote a Sarajevo novel nobody reads, and it opens with the heroine already dead](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-andric-gospodjica/): The Nobel laureate wrote The Woman from Sarajevo — Gospodjica — during the German occupation of Belgrade in 1944, and Svjetlost of Sarajevo published...
- [Sarajevo Holiday Inn — Karadžić's own hotel was the sniper platform, then the press base for 1,425 days](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-holiday-inn-first-shots/): The Ivan Štraus building opened in 1983 as the flagship of the 1984 Winter Olympics. Ten years later some of the first shots of...
- [Sarajevo in Edwardian watercolour — the ladies who painted the city in 1909](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/british-ladies-in-sarajevo/): In the two years after the 1908 annexation crisis, two British women published widely-read travel books about Bosnia. One was a watercolourist named Mary...
- [Sarajevo — the British historian who interviewed the 1914 conspirators](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-seton-watson-four-journeys/): The British historian visited Bosnia in 1912 and 1913 before the assassination, returned in 1920 and 1925 to interview the surviving conspirators, and published...
- [Sarajevo Kállay era — twenty-one years that built the Sarajevo you walk, run from a desk in Vienna](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/kallay-era/): Between 1882 and his death on 13 July 1903, the Hungarian aristocrat Béni Kállay ran Bosnia-Herzegovina from Vienna as Common Minister of Finance. He...
- [Sarajevo — nearly the hardest place on earth to start a business, and the tech scene doesn't care](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-184th-business/): BiH is ranked 184th out of 190 countries for ease of starting a business (World Bank Doing Business 2020). Businesses face approximately 500 different...
- [Sarajevo 1878 — a Habsburg officer wrote the playbook for how to civilise Bosnia, and Vienna followed it for thirty years](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/schweiger-lerchenfeld/): A month after Austro-Hungarian troops entered Sarajevo, a Habsburg military officer named Armand Schweiger-Lerchenfeld published in Vienna a 245-page ethnographic study of the newly-occupied...
- [Sarajevo — a city of 420,000 grew by 116 people in a year, and the cafés are still full](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/09/sarajevo-116-net-births/): In 2019, Kanton Sarajevo recorded 4,320 births and 4,204 deaths. Net natural increase for a city of 420,000 people was 116. The canton's development...
- [Sarajevo — the government admits the air breaks every limit](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-air-every-limit/): "The number of exceedances is far greater than permitted for all monitored pollutants." That is not a campaigner's line. It is the conclusion of...
- [Sarajevo has been on UNESCO's Tentative List for 30 years — and still isn't inscribed](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-on-unescos-tentative-list/): Twenty-nine years ago, the Bosnian Institute for the Protection of Cultural Heritage submitted Sarajevo as a candidate World Heritage Site under criterion (v). The...
- [Sarajevo — half the country's tourists come to one city, and the city knows it can't keep up](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-tourism-concentration/): In 2019, 54.4% of all tourists in the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina visited Kanton Sarajevo. 667,756 people. The canton's own development strategy calls...
- [Sarajevo Old Jewish Cemetery — 3,850 Sephardic tombstones, second-largest in Europe](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/old-jewish-cemetery/): On the south slope above the Miljacka, thirty-one thousand square metres of Sephardic sepulchral culture. Three thousand eight hundred and fifty tombstones in seven...
- [Sarajevo — the new hotels are going up, and the workers building them flew in from Nepal and India](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-hotel-labour/): Nejira Pašić's University of Sarajevo employer survey documents the shift. Construction and hospitality labour used to come from Serbia and Turkey. Between 2023 and...
- [Sarajevo's oldest name is Butmir — a 7,000-year-old farming village under the airport](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/butmir-neolithic/): The oldest Sarajevo is buried in Ilidža, on the alluvial plain that runs from the spring of the Bosna river to the modern airport....
- [Sarajevo — 72% say the tram doesn't reach them equally, and 18% over 45 still won't cross Vrbanja bridge](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-transport-inequality/): Jasmin Ademović's University of Sarajevo study surveyed 150 residents and did about 40 interviews. The quantitative finding: three in four Sarajevans say the transport...
- [Sarajevo — four houses, four empires, all walkable in one afternoon](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/four-sarajevan-houses/): The 2018 ArchNet-IJAR article by Emina Zejnilović and Erna Husukić proposes a compact framework for reading Sarajevan residential architecture across the city's four historical...
- [Sarajevo 1814 — the French consul bet on the wrong side](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-1814-consul-network/): Galib Šljivo's archive is the Habsburg proconsul at Travnik reporting back to Vienna in real time through 1813–14. The revolt didn't start in Sarajevo...
- [Sarajevo modernism began with 15,000 letters from Le Corbusier's Paris studio](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/letters-to-sarajevo/): Between 1933 and 1941, Dušan Grabrijan — professor at the Secondary Technical School in Sarajevo, occupied with the field research on the Bosnian oriental...
- [Sarajevo Kazandžiluk — the bullet that becomes a pen](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-shrapnel-four-stages/): Helen Orr's Chapter 1 traces the same metal through four stages: Lack (Bosnia had almost no weapons pre-war), Commodity (Yugoslav People's Army munitions), Waste...
- [Sarajevo — Neidhardt's first building was a wooden ski house on Trebević](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/ski-house-on-trebevic/): In 1947 the Society of Engineers and Technicians commissioned Juraj Neidhardt to design a modest wooden-and-masonry ski house on Trebević above Sarajevo. It was...
- [Sarajevo Napredak — three buildings on one plot, and the shop rents have paid for the theatre for 113 years](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-napredak-cross-subsidy/): Dionizije Sunko's 1912 Napredak Palace at the corner of Titova and Alipašina is three buildings on 1,536 m² pretending to be one. Shops and...
- [Sarajevo's pravo na pogled — the Ottoman siting principle Neidhardt turned into modernist housing](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/the-right-to-a-view/): Juraj Neidhardt worked out three distinct answers to the question of how modernist housing could sit properly in Sarajevo. Each was tested on a...
- [Sarajevo Salomova palata — Ottoman porches inside a 1912 façade](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-salomova-tonnies-doksat/): Rudolf Tönnies designed the Salomova palata in 1912 for the Salom brothers, Jeshua and Morris. Nine window bays across the street façade. On axes...
- [Sarajevo — the peasant fantasy Victorian Britain came here to buy](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/the-peasant-fantasy/): The British writers who came to Habsburg Bosnia between 1895 and 1914 were not, on the whole, looking at Bosnia. They were looking at...
- [Sarajevo — the two architects who fixed the city with three staircases, and won an architecture prize for it](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-urban-staircases-collegium-artisticum/): Sarajevo runs on hills. The public rooms locals actually use aren't squares — they're the staircases and the small landings between them. Nermina Zagora...
- [Sarajevo — Thomas Cook sold £46 tours here for eighteen summers, until 28 June 1914](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/when-thomas-cook-came-to-sarajevo/): In 1896 Thomas Cook & Son launched its first guided tours to Habsburg Bosnia and Herzegovina. They ran every May to September until 1914....
- [Sarajevo — the biggest book-burning in history took 90 minutes, and the shells landed on the fire brigade too](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-national-library-attack-method/): Bakaršić's 1994 essay walks the tape. 25 incendiary mortars on the Vijećnica from four coordinated hill positions. Another 40 conventional rounds on the streets...
- [Sarajevo Tarik Hodžić — Galatasaray's top scorer, now grilling ćevapi in Baščaršija](https://exploresarajevo.com/football/tarik-hodzic/): Born in Sarajevo, top scorer of the Yugoslav Second League at 22, top scorer of the Turkish Championship with Galatasaray at 32, and today...
- [Sarajevo — the royal Kotromanić stećak is thirty steps from the National Museum entrance](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/stecaks-in-the-botanical-garden/): About seventy thousand medieval stone tombstones — the stećci — survive in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Thirty of the necropolises are on the UNESCO World...
- [Sarajevo Paweł Pawlikowski — 34 years, from Serbian Epics to Fatherland](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-pawlikowski-34-years/): The Polish-British director whose SFF arc spans the festival's entire life — from a documentary about the Serbian army during the siege to a...
- [Sarajevo Jovan Marjanović — the director who inherited a siege-era festival](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-jovan-marjanovic-sff-director/): He took the festival from Purivatra in 2022 and ran the 32nd edition with 250 films from 70 countries, five Honorary Hearts, and a...
- [Sarajevo Film Festival — the actors and directors who came to the city](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-film-festival-celebrities-who-came/): De Niro opened the festival and stayed for Taxi Driver. Jolie became an honorary citizen. The 2026 class brought Watson, Farhadi, Luna, Harrelson, and...
- [Sarajevo Film Festival 2026 — five Hearts, 250 films, and the Oscar winner that came home in 4K](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-film-festival-32nd-edition/): The 32nd edition gave five Honorary Hearts — to Watson, Farhadi, Luna, Harrelson, and Hadžihafizbegović — opened with Pawlikowski's Cannes winner, and closed with...
- [Sarajevo Edin Džeko — the Bosnian Diamond, born in the valley](https://exploresarajevo.com/football/edin-dzeko/): Born in Sarajevo, started at Željezničar at 17, 350+ career goals, Bosnia's all-time top scorer, and at 40 he captained the country past the...
- [Sarajevo Oriental Institute — 5,263 manuscripts nobody had a copy of](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-oriental-institute-burned/): The famous book-burning date is 25 August 1992. The first one was 17 May — the Oriental Institute at Zmaja od Bosne 5, gutted...
- [Sarajevo's Boris Trapara — the 2019 joint PhD that named the five Vienna twins](https://exploresarajevo.com/architecture/boris-trapara/): The Sarajevo scholar whose 2019 dissertation turned 'Sarajevo looks like Vienna' into a specific claim about which architect drew what where.
- [Sarajevo's imperial nostalgia — how the Habsburg quarter became a tourism economy](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/imperial-nostalgia/): The 2014 reopening of Vijećnica, the redevelopment of the Habsburg quarter, the tourist economy of Baščaršija — all fit inside a wider Balkan post-1989...
- [Sarajevo 1885 — Trebević stopped being a mountain, became forest #1401](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-forests-as-municipalities/): Before the Habsburgs, Sarajevans went up Trebević and cut winter firewood. It had worked that way for four centuries. In 1885 the Landesregierung renumbered...
- [Sarajevo — the 1957 book that turned the Ottoman house into modernism](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/liberating-ottoman-legacy/): The 1957 book that celebrated Bosnian traditional architecture as modernist did more than argue for design continuity. It intervened in a specific intellectual problem...
- [Sarajevo 1901 — Topič shot eleven panoramas, the best sat in a drawer](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-topic-illuminated-miljacka/): The story you know is Schädler 1879 next to Topič 1901 — one before, one after. The archival truth is that Topič joined the...
- [Sarajevo layover — the airport is 12 km from Baščaršija, so it depends how long you have](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-layover/): Sarajevo Airport (SJJ) is closer to the centre than most European capital airports — 12 km, ~20 minutes by taxi, and the Tunnel of...
- [Sarajevo's Svrzo House has a country cousin — the čardaklija, catalogued as proto-modern bioclimatic architecture](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/cardaklija/): If Svrzo House is the urban Ottoman-Bosnian dwelling most visitors to Sarajevo will see, the čardaklija is its country cousin — the multi-storey timber-and-plaster...
- [Sarajevo — the Habsburgs killed the mahala with a map, not a decree, and Sarajevans still ask which one you're from](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-mahala-to-strasse/): Before 1878 Sarajevo had 96 named mahalas and no numbered streets. The Habsburgs arrived, mapped the city at 1:12,500, colour-coded stone red and wood...
- [Sarajevo — Neidhardt's archive burned in the siege, and MoMA bought what survived in 2021](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/neidhardt-archive-moma/): Juraj Neidhardt's private working archive, forty years of Sarajevan modernist design, was largely destroyed in the 1992–95 siege. A portion survived at the Bosnian...
- [Sarajevo National Museum — four buildings pretending to be one, and the Haggadah has been inside since 1894](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/national-museum-parik-1913/): On Zmaja od Bosne in central Sarajevo, five minutes' walk east of the Holiday Inn, sits a four-pavilion complex that opened in 1913 as...
- [Sarajevo Main Post Office — Vancaš copied Otto Wagner's Vienna original, and finished eight months before the assassination](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/main-post-office-vancas-1913/): On the north bank of the Miljacka, four minutes' walk east of the Sacred Heart Cathedral, stands the Main Post Office of Sarajevo —...
- [Sarajevo's 'Islam You Didn't Know About' tour — a response to the tourists' comments](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/islam-you-didnt-know-about/): In 2015, a Sarajevan tour operator launched a new three-hour walk in Baščaršija — designed not around a place or a period but around...
- [Sarajevo Sacred Heart — the Burgundian cathedral Vancaš shrunk to fit, with the rosette moved and one painter dead mid-fresco](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-sacred-heart-notre-dame-dijon/): Vancaš had one French Gothic church in his sketchbook when he took the commission. The plot in Trg Franje Josipa wouldn't fit it. So...
- [Sarajevo's Alexander Wittek — the architect of the Sebilj and Vijećnica, then killed himself](https://exploresarajevo.com/architecture/alexander-wittek/): In 1891 a young Croatian-Austrian architect named Alexander Wittek redesigned the Sebilj fountain in Baščaršija. In 1892 he was commissioned to design the new...
- [Sarajevo War Hostel — a father, a son, and a bunker built in an apartment](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/war-hostel-nula-jedan/): In an ordinary apartment building somewhere in central Sarajevo, a man who fought as a cable operator through four years of siege gives three-hour...
- [Sarajevo's Ivan Štraus — the architect of the city you flew into](https://exploresarajevo.com/architecture/ivan-straus/): Between 1970 and 1986 Ivan Štraus designed three buildings that most first-time visitors to Sarajevo see within twelve hours of arrival: the airport terminal,...
- [Sarajevo National Theatre — 22 years before it staged its first play](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/08/sarajevo-national-theatre-hansen-twin/): Walk east along Obala Kulina bana and the third serious building on your left is the opera house. Boris Trapara traced its façade back...
- [Sarajevo's Josip Vancaš — the Slovenian who designed 250 buildings, then left the day the empire ended](https://exploresarajevo.com/architecture/josip-vancas/): Karel Pařík stayed in Sarajevo through empire, kingdom, and Second World War. Josip Vancaš did the opposite. He arrived in 1883, designed the Sacred...
- [Sarajevo's Karel Pařík — the Czech who designed seventy of its buildings and would not leave](https://exploresarajevo.com/architecture/karel-parik/): Karel Pařík arrived in Sarajevo in 1884, aged twenty-six, on a Habsburg administration contract. He designed the National Museum, the Ashkenazi Synagogue, the Presidency,...
- [Sarajevo — in 1942, Grabrijan and Neidhardt tried to demolish Baščaršija](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/basscarsija-was-dead/): The Sarajevo modernists later celebrated as the champions of Bosnian architectural heritage published a master plan in 1942 that called the old bazaar "sick...
- [Sarajevo taught Zlatko Ugljen — his Aga Khan-winning work is elsewhere](https://exploresarajevo.com/architecture/zlatko-ugljen/): Zlatko Ugljen won the Aga Khan Award for Architecture in 1983 for the White Mosque at Visoko — the highest prize in Islamic architecture,...
- [Sarajevo Vijećnica — Pařík drew it in August 1892, Kállay personally rejected it, then Wittek re-dressed it](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-vijecnica-parik-first-plan/): Nedžad Kurto's Faculty-of-Architecture study of Vijećnica reads the archive drawings and reorders the credit line. The building the world sees is Pařík's equilateral-triangle plan...
- [Sarajevo in seven censuses — 175 years of counting a city](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/seven-censuses/): In the 1991 pre-war census, Sarajevo was 49.2 percent Bosniak Muslim. In the 2013 post-war census — the next one taken — it was...
- [Sarajevo — the Jerusalem of Europe, and why the phrase is older than tourism marketing](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-jerusalem-of-europe/): Sarajevo is sometimes called the Jerusalem of Europe. Most people who hear the phrase assume it's tourism-board copywriting — but it isn't. The nickname...
- [Sarajevo free walking tour — three operators, three meeting points, one honest tip](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-free-walking-tour/): Sarajevo has three main free walking tour operators in 2026 — Neno & Friends, Meet Bosnia, and Tourist Guide Sarajevo. "Free" means tip-based, and...
- [Sarajevo — a short definition, in plain English](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-definition/): Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina — a mid-size European city of about 275,000 in the Dinaric Alps, founded in 1462. The...
- [Sarajevo — the Muslim family that hid a Jewish family from the Nazis in 1941, and were saved by them fifty years later](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-hardaga-kavilio/): In April 1941, Mustafa Hardaga took Josef Kavilio's family into his Vratnik home when the Germans bombed theirs. In February 1994, when Zejneba Hardaga...
- [Who was assassinated during a visit to Sarajevo in Bosnia](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/who-was-assassinated-in-sarajevo/): Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife Sophie Chotek, Duchess of Hohenberg, were assassinated in Sarajevo on Sunday 28 June 1914. The shooter...
- [Sarajevo Christmas Eve/12/24 — the Trans-Siberian Orchestra hit whose 'white-haired cellist' was 36](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-trans-siberian-orchestra-christmas-eve-1224/): The six-minute rock instrumental that combines God Rest Ye Merry, Gentlemen with the Ukrainian Carol of the Bells is a triple-platinum American Christmas fixture....
- [Sarajevo Olympics — twelve days on mountains that became the front line eight years later](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-olympics/): The XIVth Winter Olympics opened in Sarajevo on 8 February 1984 and closed on 19 February. Twelve days. Forty-nine events. The venues sat on...
- [Sarajevo — the bobsled team that crossed the airport runway under sniper fire to reach the 1994 Olympics](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-bobsled-team-lillehammer/): Igor Boras had never bobsledded. He was a sprinter. He joined the Bosnian bobsled team because he wanted to be in the Olympics. To...
- [Sarajevo — the Sacred Heart Cathedral was consecrated on 14 September 1889, and it is the third 1889 building in this series](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-1889-sacred-heart-cathedral/): Vancaš's neo-Gothic Catholic cathedral was consecrated on 14 September 1889. The same year, Paržik opened the sharia-judge school on Sagrdžije. The same year, Vancaš...
- [Sarajevo's iron fences — the pheasant on Sime Milutinovića 15, and other pieces you walk past](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/iron-fences-habsburg-sarajevo/): The Habsburg residential palaces of central Sarajevo hide, on their staircases and balconies, wrought-iron work that a visitor can walk within ten metres of...
- [Sarajevo — three Habsburg firsts you didn't know about: an 1885 horse tram, an 1899 postcard, and a pelican in Ilidža](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-firsts-tram-postcards-pelicans/): Sarajevo had the first tram in the Balkans (1 January 1885). It had one of the earliest recorded travel postcards, dated 24 April 1899,...
- [Sarajevo — the Vijećnica reopened on 17 July 2014, twenty-two years after Serb shells burned it, and the new façade is a very careful copy](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-2014-vijecnica-reopening/): The 1896 Vijećnica burned on the night of 25–26 August 1992, when Serb incendiary shells from four hill positions set fire to the National...
- [Sarajevo has five urban rooms — the small courtyards the city depends on](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/urban-rooms/): A 2021 book from the Faculty of Architecture at the University of Sarajevo argues that the city's civic life happens not on its grand...
- [Sarajevo — the 1462 Ottoman bath reopened as a working spa in 2014, and you can still book a slot](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-2014-isa-begov-hamam/): Isa-beg built his hammam in 1462, the year he founded Sarajevo. It ran as a working bath for four centuries. Most western-Balkan hammams that...
- [Sarajevo — the book that took the shrapnel: a 1926 letters volume in a Kovačići garden, 22 April 1992](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-book-that-took-the-shrapnel/): Kemal Bakaršić came out of the basement after a mortar attack, found his wife alive, and found the volume he had given her the...
- [Sarajevo Zetra — Torvill and Dean in 1984, a morgue in 1994](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-1983-zetra-olympic-hall/): Zetra opened in 1983 in time for the 1984 Sarajevo Winter Games. Torvill and Dean won figure-skating gold there with Boléro. The wooden roof...
- [Sarajevo — in 1902 Paržik built a synagogue by borrowing from six different architectures](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-1902-ashkenazi-synagogue/): Karlo Paržik had been running the Habsburg Orientalizing programme for fifteen years when the Ashkenazi Synagogue came across his desk. He pulled decorative elements...
- [Sarajevo Ciglane — the Ottoman mahala rebuilt in concrete in 1976](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/ciglane-mahala-in-concrete/): On the site of a former brick factory in the Koševo valley, sixteen hectares of terraced socialist housing were built between 1976 and 1979...
- [Sarajevo in 48 hours — the two-day plan that covers four centuries and all four faiths](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-48-hours/): Day one: the Ottoman city and the bazaar. Day two: the Habsburg quarter, the war history, and Trebević. Hour-by-hour, with addresses, prices, and the...
- [Sarajevo 1912 — the Bosnian Parliament the Habsburgs planned across the river from Vijećnica, and the First World War stopped](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-1912-sabor-competition/): Sixteen architects sent designs. Second prize went to Rudolf Tönnies. A design was awarded to Anton Floderer in Vienna under the motto 'Am Balkan.'...
- [Sarajevo — Hotel Central opened in 1889, and Vancaš put horseshoe arches on the front](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-1889-hotel-central/): Josip Vancaš was 30. Hotel Central was his first big Sarajevo commission. He decided the right decorative language for a new imperial hotel in...
- [Sarajevo — the European capital where halal is the default, not the exception](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-halal-muslim-friendly/): More than 120 mosques. Five daily calls to prayer from Baščaršija. Almost every restaurant serves halal meat because that is how Sarajevo sources its...
- [Sarajevo — the Habsburgs opened a sharia-judge school in 1889, and put minarets on it](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-1889-sharia-school/): Eleven years after Christian Austria-Hungary occupied Muslim Bosnia, the imperial government funded a five-year higher-education institution to train Islamic sharia judges. They hired a...
- [Sarajevo Juraj Neidhardt — the Le Corbusier student who drew half the modernist city](https://exploresarajevo.com/architecture/juraj-neidhardt/): Trained under Peter Behrens in Vienna and by two years in Le Corbusier's Paris studio at 35 rue de Sèvres, Neidhardt settled in Sarajevo...
- [Sarajevo — the Vogošća trolleybus came back in 2024, after 28 years off the map](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-vogosca-trolleybus/): The line was cut in 1992 when the war started. It didn't come back after the war. It didn't come back for the next...
- [Sarajevo — a $1,000-a-month European base with 40 Mbps and a café culture built for slow work](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-digital-nomads/): A one-bedroom in the centre for €350. Coworking from €100. Espresso for 3 BAM. The city the editor left Bali for, and the honest...
- [Sarajevo 1957 — the year they published the big book and burned the big han](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-1957-what-opened/): The received view of 1957 in Sarajevo is a book and a plan. Less remembered is what the same year did to the city's...
- [Sarajevo — Le Corbusier wrote the foreword, then two guys built the whole west side](https://exploresarajevo.com/architecture/grabrijan-neidhardt/): A Slovenian architect who trained under Jože Plečnik and a Croatian-Bosnian architect who worked in Le Corbusier's Paris studio met in 1930s Sarajevo, published...
- [Sarajevo Dušan Grabrijan — the Slovenian theorist who read the Bosnian house as modernist](https://exploresarajevo.com/architecture/dusan-grabrijan/): Trained by Plečnik in Ljubljana and by two years in Paris, Grabrijan arrived in Sarajevo in 1930 to teach at the Secondary Technical School...
- [Sarajevo — six day trips, and the Mostar route that earns a stop in Konjic or Jablanica for lamb](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-day-trips/): Vrelo Bosne by tram, Bjelašnica for skiing and Lukomir, Travnik for the Ottoman fortress and Andrić, the Skakavac waterfall on foot, Visoko for Ugljen's...
- [Sarajevo — how Henri Moser sold it to Victorian Britain](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/oriental-holiday-henri-moser/): In the 1890s a Swiss watchmaker's son, disgraced in Russia, bankrupt in Central Asia, and reinvented as a scholar of Islamic art, was employed...
- [Sarajevo — where to eat, from ćevapi counters to hilltop lamb](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-where-to-eat/): Four ćevapi grills on Bravadžiluk, three hilltop restaurants with valley views, a French-trained bakery, and a Viennese café inside the oldest hotel. The full...
- [Sarajevo — Kuwait now sends more tourists than France, and nobody saw it coming](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-gulf-tourism-map/): The Sarajevo Canton statistical yearbook for 2022 reveals a shift: after Croatia and Turkey, the top source countries for foreign nights in the city...
- [Sarajevo Tunnel of Hope was also the Tunnel of Smugglers](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/tunnel-of-smugglers/): The 800-metre Sarajevo Tunnel is now a museum and the most photographed piece of siege infrastructure in the city. Helen Orr's UNC dissertation adds...
- [Sarajevo Dobrinja — an invisible international border runs between two apartment blocks](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-dobrinja-invisible-border/): The Inter-Entity Boundary Line — the Dayton internal border between the Federation and Republika Srpska — cuts through the middle of one Sarajevo neighbourhood....
- [Sarajevo's crni humor — laughing at the worst thing that just happened](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/crni-humor/): The city's tradition of dry, self-deprecating black humour predates 1992 by generations. Under siege it became a survival tool. On today's war tours it...
- [Sarajevo vs. Mostar — why the two-hour bus ride changes everything, and you should not day-trip](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-vs-mostar/): Mostar has one bridge and one afternoon. Sarajevo has four centuries and three full days. Visiting both separately is the right call; visiting Mostar...
- [Sarajevo vs. Dubrovnik — the inland city costs a third of the coastal one, and you get the streets to yourself](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-vs-dubrovnik/): A Numbeo cost-of-living comparison puts Sarajevo at roughly two-thirds cheaper than Dubrovnik for restaurant meals. The bazaar has no cruise ships. The trade-off is...
- [Sarajevo vs. Belgrade — the valley city and the river city, and why you cannot compare without trying both](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-vs-belgrade/): Belgrade has the nightlife and the Danube. Sarajevo has the layers and the coffee. A hostel bed in either costs less than a sandwich...
- [Sarajevo Vijećnica — Wikipedia now names Pařík, but still does not tell his story](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-vijecnica-wikipedia-gaps/): English Wikipedia now names Karel Pařík alongside Wittek and Iveković in the Vijećnica infobox — a recent correction. But the article still does not...
- [Sarajevo National Museum — Wikipedia names the building but misses the Vienna twin](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-national-museum-wikipedia-gaps/): English Wikipedia now names Karel Pařík as the architect of the National Museum's 1913 quadrangle. What it still does not tell is the architectural...
- [Sarajevo Kovači climb — from the river to the fortress, 120 metres up and four centuries back](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-kovaci-climb/): A steep linear walk uphill from Čajdžinica Džirlo through the cemetery and the mahala to Žuta Tabija. Five stops, 1.5 km, 45 minutes, and...
- [Sarajevo — Wikipedia calls it 'pseudo-Moorish' but the scholars say 'Orientalizing', and the difference matters](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-habsburg-orientalizing-wikipedia/): English Wikipedia's Sarajevo architecture articles use 'pseudo-Moorish' throughout — the 19th-century label. The ERC 758099 project at the University of Vienna uses 'Orientalizing' and...
- [Sarajevo Ferhadija to Marijin Dvor — the Habsburg mile, from the brass line to the Parliament](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-ferhadija-marijin-dvor/): A flat walk west through everything the Austro-Hungarian administration built between 1882 and 1914. Seven stops, approximately 3 km, 40 minutes if you walk....
- [Sarajevo Baščaršija loop — 90 minutes, 1462 to 1914, and every faith within five minutes](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-bascarsija-loop/): A circular walk through the old bazaar that crosses two empires, four places of worship, and the brass line in the pavement where one...
- [Sarajevo defeated the sultan's governor in 1814, and the empire had to sack him](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-1814-revolt/): The Ottoman vali tried to tax Sarajevo like any other city. Sarajevo revolted. The vali sent an army. Sarajevo routed it at Umarina, captured...
- [Sarajevo has five Vienna twins](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevos-vienna-twins/): Boris Trapara's 2019 joint PhD pairs five Sarajevo buildings with their Vienna sisters. Same architects. Same drafting rooms. Same forty years. A walking key...
- [Sarajevo — yes it's the capital, and the name literally means 'the place around the palace'](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-capital-of-bosnia/): Isa-beg Ishaković founded Sarajevo around 1462 to be an Ottoman regional seat, built around his palace. The name comes from Turkish saray, meaning palace....
- [Sarajevo bakeries — the shortlist, from a French artisan that opened after the siege to a somun oven that bakes in a minute](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-bakeries-shortlist/): The most-recommended bakery in Sarajevo is a French artisan house — Maison Coco, opened around 2013, ten years after the war ended. The working...
- [Sarajevo Sebilj — a wooden copy of Mimar Sinan's stone fountain in Istanbul](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-sebilj-mimar-sinan-copy/): The most photographed object in Sarajevo isn't quite Ottoman, isn't quite Habsburg, and isn't original. Alexander Wittek travelled to Istanbul in 1890, studied the...
- [Sarajevo — the largest book-burning in history was one night in August 1992](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-largest-book-burning/): The Nazis burned about 20 million books, but spread across 45 places over years. Sarajevo lost 1.25 million in one night. Twenty-five mortars on...
- [Sarajevo on Sunday — what's open, what's closed, and the plan that works](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/things-to-do-in-sarajevo-on-sunday/): Regular retail closed since November 2024. Souvenir shops and traditional crafts are exempt. Restaurants, cafés, cable car, and two memorial museums all open. Here...
- [Sarajevo Baščaršija — the mortar-casing coffee grinders on Kazandžiluk](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/bullets-in-bascarsija/): The trade in war-debris trinkets — bullet-shell pens, mortar-casing coffee grinders, engraved cartridge cases — has grown quietly along the copper alley of Kazandžiluk...
- [Sarajevo at night — the bazaar after dark, sunset viewpoints, sevdah rooms, and one club worth staying up for](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/things-to-do-in-sarajevo-at-night/): Baščaršija stays alive until 02:00 on weekends. The tram runs a night service. Sunset over the valley from Žuta Tabija, sevdah in a Halači...
- [Sarajevo Vijećnica — has five siblings](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/vijecnica-five-siblings/): The Sarajevo City Hall is the most-photographed Habsburg building in Bosnia. It is also one of six. A small tour of the five smaller...
- [Sarajevo with kids — eleven family-tested things that actually work](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/things-to-do-in-sarajevo-with-kids/): A specific family day plan for Sarajevo — with the zoo prices, the cable car queue windows, the parks with real playgrounds, and the...
- [Sarajevo — the 1882 revolt that made the Habsburgs build for thirty years](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/herzegovinian-uprising-1882/): In November 1881 the Austro-Hungarian administration extended compulsory military service to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Within eight weeks a general uprising broke out in the...
- [Sarajevo — the map that came first, how the Habsburgs surveyed Bosnia for three years before laying a stone](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/cadastral-survey-1879/): In December 1879 the Common Ministry in Vienna set up Die Cataster-Commission. Its job was to survey every square metre of Bosnia and Herzegovina....
- [Sarajevo — one man built the Orthodox Cathedral and the Ottoman barracks](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/andrea-damjanov-krsla/): Andrea Damjanov (1813–1878) was a Macedonian master builder from Veles. He designed Sarajevo's Serbian Orthodox Cathedral. He also designed the massive Ottoman military barracks...
- [Sarajevo siege — 1,425 days, and how to read the marks it left on the city](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/siege-of-sarajevo/): The longest siege in modern European history: 5 April 1992 to 29 February 1996. Around 11,500 killed, half a million shells fired. A short...
- [Sarajevo walking tour — three hours, four centuries, one brass line in the pavement](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/07/sarajevo-walking-tour/): A self-guided walk from the Ottoman bazaar to the Habsburg quarter, crossing the exact metre where the empires meet. Eight stops, three hours, everything...
- [Sarajevo — best area to stay for first-time visitors](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/06/best-part-of-sarajevo-to-stay/): Baščaršija for atmosphere, Ferhadija/Centar for shops and cafés, Marijin Dvor for business travellers and airport access. A specific neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood breakdown with the tradeoffs.
- [Sarajevo airport to city centre — taxi, shuttle, tram, or the Moj Taxi app](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/06/sarajevo-airport-to-city-centre/): Sarajevo Airport (SJJ) sits 12 km south-west of the city centre. Taxi via Moj Taxi ~25–35 BAM. Airport shuttle 5 BAM. City bus +...
- [Sarajevo to Mostar — the transport options, and the honest reason not to day-trip](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/06/sarajevo-to-mostar/): By train: ~1h58, 14.10 BAM, twice daily on ŽFBH. By bus: 2.5–3 hours, ~25 BAM one way. By car: 2.5 hours on the M-17....
- [Sarajevo — the best time to visit, month by month](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/06/best-time-to-visit-sarajevo/): Late May through early July is the honest answer. September is the second best. A specific breakdown by month, with what to expect from...
- [Sarajevo air pollution — when it's a problem, when it isn't, and what the numbers actually show](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/06/sarajevo-air-pollution/): December through February the city is one of the most polluted in Europe. March through November it is normal for a Central European capital....
- [Sarajevo — how many days do you need? One, two, three, or five](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/06/how-many-days-in-sarajevo/): A specific answer for four common trip lengths, with what to skip at each — from a 24-hour layover to a five-day slow visit....
- [Sarajevo tap water — safe to drink, and the story behind why it tastes so good](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/06/sarajevo-tap-water/): Yes. The city's tap water comes from the Sarajevsko polje karst aquifer via the [Sarajevo Waterworks](https://viksa.ba/) system. Meets EU drinking-water standards, tested daily. Drink...
- [Sarajevo — is it worth visiting? A local editor's honest answer](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/06/is-sarajevo-worth-visiting/): Yes, and for a specific list of reasons that are not the ones most travel sites give. A local answer, and what to skip....
- [Sarajevo — is it safe? A local's honest answer for 2026](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/06/is-sarajevo-safe/): Yes, meaningfully safer than most Western European capitals for common tourist risks. Very low violent crime, low pickpocketing, safe for solo women, safe at...
- [Sarajevo's eight museums, ranked — the War Childhood Museum won the Council of Europe Prize; go there first](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/sarajevo-museums/): In 2018 the War Childhood Museum in Sarajevo won the Council of Europe Museum Prize — the highest museum award in Europe, given annually...
- [Sarajevo Haggadah — a book that has outlived five empires](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/sarajevo-haggadah/): A 14th-century Sephardic Passover manuscript made in Northern Spain, carried east after the Alhambra Decree, in Sarajevo since the late Ottoman period — and...
- [Sarajevo — five things no other European capital has](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/sarajevo-five-unique/): A short, opinionated list of experiences specific to this city — the war-history walks, the Olympic ruin, the Ottoman bridge upstream of the bazaar,...
- [Sarajevo's five festivals — sixty years, mostly unbroken by war](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/sarajevo-festivals/): Film, jazz, theatre, sevdah and winter — the annual cultural calendar that the city has run, mostly without interruption, since the 1960s.
- [Sarajevo architecture — 1462 to 1913, on foot in one afternoon](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/sarajevo-architecture/): From Isa-beg's 1462 Ottoman foundation to Karel Pařík's Habsburg pavilions, a guide to the buildings that make the city legible at street level.
- [Sarajevo Ottoman bridges — four still cross the Miljacka, and one of them is Roman](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/ottoman-bridges/): Sarajevo has four surviving stone bridges that pre-date the Habsburg occupation: the Seher-Ćehaja (1585), the Latin (1798, rebuilt), the Kozija Ćuprija (16th century, upstream),...
- [Sarajevo's UNESCO list: four entries, none of them a building](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/unesco-sarajevo/): The city has no World Heritage site, and probably never will in the form most travellers expect. What it has, on the other UNESCO...
- [Sarajevo — nine viewpoints over the valley, including the one Karadžić used as a firing position](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/sarajevo-viewpoints/): Sarajevo sits in a valley whose slopes provide dozens of panoramic vantage points, most of them free. Nine are worth the climb. Two —...
- [Sarajevo — pronouncing the bazaar, nine Bosnian consonants English doesn't have](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/pronouncing-the-bazaar/): A walking tour of the unpronounceable streets of Baščaršija, by way of nine consonants you don't have and one diacritic you'll learn to love....
- [Sarajevo east meets west — the brass line on Ferhadija where the Ottoman city becomes Habsburg in one step](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/east-meets-west/): One brass line in the pavement. Three empires layered on top of each other. The walk that lets you read it all in an...
- [Sarajevo — the kids who still slide down the Olympic ruin](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/the-track-luge-documentary/): A new Bosnian documentary follows three Sarajevan teenagers training as luge athletes on the 1984 Olympic track. It opens at the Sarajevo Film Festival...
- [Sarajevo sevdah and the two souls](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/sevdah-and-the-two-souls/): Bosnia's UNESCO-listed folk music, the Arabic word for melancholy it takes its name from, and the technical reason it sounds simultaneously Eastern and European....
- [Sarajevo Inat — the Bosnian word for stubbornness with honour, and the house dismantled beam by beam](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/05/inat-a-small-word/): One Bosnian word, an Ottoman-Turkish loan, and the house that moved across a river to make its point.
- [Sarajevo Bosnian coffee — a ritual four hundred years older than the espresso, slower on purpose](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/04/bosanska-kafa-ritual/): Coffee reached Sarajevo in the mid-sixteenth century, roughly two hundred and eighty years before espresso was invented in Turin. The Ottoman preparation the city...
- [Sarajevo Trebević at sunset — nine minutes up the ridge that shelled the city](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/03/trebevic-cable-car-sunset/): The 2018 cable car climbs 500 metres in nine minutes to the pine ridge above Sarajevo — the same ridge Bosnian Serb artillery fired...
- [Sarajevo Baščaršija — a slow walk through the 1462 bazaar the modernists called sick lungs in 1942](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/03/bascarsija-walking-tour/): In 1942 the architects Grabrijan and Neidhardt, the same men who would later be celebrated as champions of Bosnian heritage, published a master plan...
- [Sarajevo ćevapi — five grills in Baščaršija, one running since 1957, all within a hundred metres](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/02/cevapi-where-to-eat/): Sarajevo's five most-cited ćevabdžinicas — Željo, Petica Ferhatović, Hodžić, Mrkva, and Nune — all sit within a hundred metres of each other on the...
- [Sarajevo sevdah — UNESCO-inscribed in 2024, played live in six specific rooms](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/02/sevdah-night-out/): In December 2024, UNESCO inscribed sevdalinka on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity — the Bosnian song tradition older than...
- [Sarajevo Bjelašnica — ski the 1984 Olympic pistes for the price of a coffee, empty most weekdays](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2026/01/winter-on-bjelasnica/): Cheap lift tickets, empty pistes, and the 1984 ghost on every chairlift.
- [Sarajevo Miljacka walk — six bridges, three empires, one 1914 corner](https://exploresarajevo.com/stories/2025/12/miljacka-river-walk/): The Miljacka runs about ten kilometres through central Sarajevo. Walking it end to end takes an afternoon and crosses six bridges from three empires:...


## Hub pages
- [Sarajevo Travel Guide](https://exploresarajevo.com/guide/): Safety, transport, where to stay, where to eat, and the complete practical guide for first-time visitors.
- [Sarajevo History](https://exploresarajevo.com/history/): Five centuries in five chapters — Ottoman foundation, Habsburg transformation, Yugoslav modernism, the siege, and the postwar city.
- [Sarajevo Walks](https://exploresarajevo.com/walks/): Five self-guided walking routes — Baščaršija loop, Ferhadija mile, Kovači climb, architecture walk, and the Miljacka river route.
- [Sarajevo Museums](https://exploresarajevo.com/museums/): Twelve museums ranked by a local editor — ticket prices, time needed, and the three you should not skip.
- [Sarajevo for Foodies](https://exploresarajevo.com/for/foodies/): Ten places to eat and drink with prices in BAM — ćevapi grills, bakeries, coffee houses, and garden restaurants.
- [Sarajevo for Architecture Nerds](https://exploresarajevo.com/for/architecture/): Four architectural layers — Ottoman, Habsburg, Yugoslav, contemporary — ten buildings, three architects to know.

## Pocket guides
- [Where to eat](https://exploresarajevo.com/guides/where-to-eat/): Ćevapi, burek, dolma, and the cafés that locals never leave.
- [A perfect day](https://exploresarajevo.com/guides/perfect-day/): From sunrise on Žuta Tabija to sunset by the Miljacka.
- [Into the mountains](https://exploresarajevo.com/guides/mountains/): Trebević, Bjelašnica, Igman — Sarajevo's wild backyard.
- [Travel essentials](https://exploresarajevo.com/guides/essentials/): Visas, currency, transport, and Bosnian phrases that open doors.

## About
- [About the site and the author](https://exploresarajevo.com/about/)
- [Colophon](https://exploresarajevo.com/colophon/)
- [Contact](https://exploresarajevo.com/contact/): h.nedim@gmail.com
- [Downloads — PDFs and booklets](https://exploresarajevo.com/downloads/)

## Editorial principles
- All photographs are CC-licensed with photographer attribution.
- No invented characters, anecdotes, or statistics. Every fact is verifiable.
- Sources cited inline; further reading at the bottom of pages drawing on outside reporting.